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Beacon Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3rd Rail, The T 
Bears in Heat T 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 
Blownout T 
Borderline T,S 
Couchmaster T 
Cruisin' T 
Dorian's Dilemma T 
Excalibur T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Fireballs T 
Flying Dutchman T 
Flying Swallow T 
Free for All T 
Free For All, Direct T 
Free for Some T 
Fresh Squeeze T 
Gitmo Love Machine T 
Head Case T,S 
Jill's Thrill T 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 
Little Wing T 
Lost Warriors T 
Norseman, The S 
Old Warriors Never Die S 
Pioneer (Spike) Route T 
Pipeline T 
Right Gull T 
Rise Up T 
Siege Tactics T 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T,S 
South East Corner T 
Stone Rodeo S 
Wild Turkeys T 
Windsurfer T 
Windwalker T 
Winter Delight T,S 
Young Warriors T 

Beacon Rock  

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Location: 45.6272, -122.0207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 45,351
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

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A lone 850í basalt monolith that sits prominently in the Washington side of the spectacular Columbia Gorge, Beacon Rock is an obvious climbing destination for Portland climbers. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality, Beacon Rock has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.

The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the East side of Beacon Rock which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.

It will make a lot more sense to sort the routes Right to Left in the route listing, since the only climber's trail traverses the wall right to left. Some routes (Fireball, Gitmo, etc.) are on the separate NE face, but are rarely climbed.

Getting There 

The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as itís a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.8 miles from here

38 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beacon Rock:
South East Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Cruisin'   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Free for All   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Little Wing   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Right Gull   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300'   
Jill's Thrill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Young Warriors   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Free For All, Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Fear of Flying   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Flying Dutchman   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Winter Delight   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Windsurfer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Blownout   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Rise Up   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Blood, Sweat, and Smears   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Free for Some   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Pipeline   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Windwalker   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Beacon Rock

Featured Route For Beacon Rock
Climbers on third pitch and at third pitch anchors...

South East Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock
Airy views of the Columbia gorge, good rock, and superb climbing make this route a classic and THE most popular route at Beacon Rock. Almost every climbable weekend will see ascents. Finding the start of this route can be a challenge. Go down the climbers trail on the East side of Beacon. After turning the corner watch for a rise in terrain. Just past the rise the route starts in a right angling corner.Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb up the right leaning corner and then up a crack to a nice ledge. Be ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Beacon Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Beacon from I-84
BETA PHOTO: Beacon from I-84
The mostly forbidden north and east faces of Beaco...
BETA PHOTO: The mostly forbidden north and east faces of Beaco...
Taken during the walk across on pitch 3 before the...
Taken during the walk across on pitch 3 before the...

Comments on Beacon Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 23, 2006
You might also add that the east face is currently closed to climbing.

The last few years have seen a revitalization of climbing and stewardship at beacon rock. There has been extensive anchor restoration, route cleaning, and new route development in the last few years. This summer there are plans to reclaim several more once popular routes of foliage and debris.
By Jonas Salk
Aug 6, 2011
I just climbed here the other day. Cruisin, S.W. corner, Free for all. Fun climbing for sure!
By Jason Kevin
From: Sedona, Arizona
Aug 21, 2015
When we started our exploration of the area, Broughton Bluff seemed to have the most/best reviews. After climbing there for a couple of sessions we decided to check out beacon since my girlfriend/climbing partner is from the area and it serves as a multi faceted attraction. We started up the famous corner route and enjoyed the summit for the first time. We then climbed one more pitch(Flying Dutchman) before calling it a day. Hands down better than Bloughton and I recommend Beacon Rock highly if visiting this area. I'm stoked to go see more of the climbing offered there!
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