Elevation: 331 ft
GPS: 45.693, -121.681 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,780 total · 2,219/month
Shared By: Charlie Egan on Jan 22, 2019
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

This cliff offers well-protected sport routes on steep and blocky fractured basalt. The style of the main wall is cryptic, full-body, and beta-intensive, reminiscent of Rifle or Jailhouse. The thuggy, gymnastic climbing offers a nice contrast/compliment to the thin technical lines of Smith Rock or Broughton. The walls further to the right climb like a moderate version of The Rat Cave. Currently routes range from 5.10b to 5.13d, with a high concentration in the 12+ to 13+ range on the main wall. Several equipped projects may reach into the 5.14 range.

The crag is primarily north facing and stays shaded for the majority of the day. Large roofs above the main wall make rainfall a non-issue for the steeper lines. Winter gets prohibitively cold, but climbing is possible the rest of the year. Breezey summer mornings can be very pleasant, even when it's 90 degrees in the parking lot. Spring can see some seepage.

While the route quality can be excellent, the rock quality can be very chossy. Always beware breaking holds and loose rock.

***It is highly recommended to wear a helmet, especially on the belay.***

Getting There

Park at either Starvation Creek State Park or Viento State Park (OR parks pass required). Walk the paved trail connecting the parks. In roughly 10 minutes, half way between the two parks, a faint trail leads 2 minutes south to the wall. Dead in The Water will be the first route you reach.

29 Total Climbs

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Location: Viento Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Viento Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
The Warm Up
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Ithika
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Dirty Girl (1st pitch)
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Something a Little Better
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Sweet Caroline
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Sour Caroline
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
The Big Ulysses
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Shield Maiden
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Dead in the Water
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Twister
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Valhalla
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Ravager
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Bloodlust
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Valkyrie
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Blood Eagle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Warm Up
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ithika
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dirty Girl (1st pitch)
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Something a Little Better
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sweet Caroline
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Sour Caroline
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Big Ulysses
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Shield Maiden
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dead in the Water
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Twister
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Valhalla
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Ravager
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Bloodlust
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Valkyrie
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Blood Eagle
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Viento Wall »

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Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
A worthy Portland (Gorge) Crag! Feb 16, 2019
Are there any plans to extend the center routes like Valhalla and Immigrant Song? Apr 17, 2019
Charlie Egan
Portland, OR
Charlie Egan   Portland, OR
JScottD--Valhalla could be extended into the Battlecry Project, but I choose to come in from Blood Eagle because it cuts out a standing rest. Immigrant Song could be extended to the left but the rock directly above sharply declines in quality. Apr 17, 2019