[Hide Comment] A worthy Portland (Gorge) Crag! Feb 16, 2019

[Hide Comment] Are there any plans to extend the center routes like Valhalla and Immigrant Song? Apr 17, 2019

[Hide Comment] JScottD--Valhalla could be extended into the Battlecry Project, but I choose to come in from Blood Eagle because it cuts out a standing rest. Immigrant Song could be extended to the left but the rock directly above sharply declines in quality. Apr 17, 2019

[Hide Comment] After a recent breakage from Bloodlust, it seems like Viento may need some glue? The last thing I want is to sound like an arm-chair route developer, especially since route development is hard work, and hold breakage is so common yet unforeseeable at this crag.
That's why I'm willing to donate money to any kind of route cleaning and reinforcement necessary. Developers, let me know what I and other climbers can do. Maybe another fundraising campaign should happen. Aug 2, 2020

[Hide Comment] I don't disagree, Scott, but the scariest thing about the Bloodsucker break is that it was without warning. I spoke with Maya and she said she took on that bolt a moment before and there was no indication of any problem. Then a lead fall broke the block off. I'm all for more glue/reinforcement out there and I'm happy to do the work when I'min the area, but that requires a lot of judgement calls about what is solid and what isn't. It's tough to be sure and this one was a surprise. Everyone take care and be safe out there. Aug 18, 2020

[Hide Comment] I have two thoughts about the recent breakage: first, everyone needs to wear a helmet when they're at this crag. Period. It could obviously save a life. No one should be letting their guard down here. See someone without a helmet on? Politely remind them that they might get lobotomized by a wayward undercling, endangering their capacity for long division and/or breathing without a tube – as well as access to the crag for everyone else.

Second, regarding route maintenance: a cash incentive is useful, but what is lacking is probably impetus. On the one hand, gluing and bolting need to be done correctly and thoughtfully, and shouldn't just be arbitrarily undertaken. But on the other hand, the more people that are willing to carefully engage in that civic duty, the safer the crag will be for everyone. The only difference between a climber and a developer is willingness. Aug 20, 2020

[Hide Comment] Absolutely agreed about helmets. Here and at every crag, on every person, climbing or not, so long as they're in the fall zone.

The only difference between a climber and a developer is willingness.

I have to respectfully disagree with this sentiment though. Average climbers shouldn't be getting "stoked" and adding bolts wherever it feels good. They should do their homework, learn from experienced developers, practice somewhere with low consequences, and then and only then put up routes that people will actually climb. What makes a climber a developer (these aren't mutually exclusive categories) is knowledge, experience, free time, disposable income, and yes, also willingness.

I have the utmost faith that Charlie did his very best to make this place as safe as possible. But, c'mon, just looking at the talus below the wall, the north-facing aspect, and knowing the general quality of rock in the Columbia Gorge, it's absolutely no surprise that, given a little traffic, big blocks are going to start coming off. The forces involved with a "take" versus a lead fall are functionally incomparable. Any amount of glue excreted from the outside is not going to hold that block on. Sometimes rock climbing is just objectively dangerous and there's nothing we can do about it, though most efforts to make it more so would be commendable.

It is worth underlining the caveat that, well, this place in particular is a crumbling choss pile with incredibly fun, hard routes. Aug 20, 2020

[Hide Comment] I agree Nate. I would just reiterate that I was quite clear in my original post that development must be undertaken correctly and thoughtfully. Thanks for your clarifications on that point. "Willingness" should be taken to imply the willingness to approach the endeavor with the appropriate sobriety and humility, not a willingness to slap bolts in :) Aug 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] Fair enough.

However, I've seen a LOT of arbitrary, improper bolting happening since March - poor materials, bad drilling angle, new bolts near established trad climbs, etc - and wanted to make it explicitly clear that becoming a developer is a long and arduous process that involves mentorship, homework, and practice. Despite incidents like these, there is a reason very few people consistently keep after this kind of work... much less actually maintain crags through bolt inspection, anchor hardware replacement, and rebolting. It's a thankless job (or worse).

I don't see more people meaningfully engaging in route development or, more importantly, stewardship until it's a paid gig, the culture of climbing changes, and/or we lose access as a result of these kinds of incidents. Aug 24, 2020

[Hide Comment] I've been saying more glue since day 1. Or do more cleaning. Someone who knows how to glue properly and doesnt make a mess and uses the correct epoxy should be prerequisites... if you have epoxy questions pm me.... it's not that hard But you definitely need to know what you're doing and what to use.

As far as the bolts go, I personally think studs/wedge bolts are a bad idea. Many of these routes are steep they take turns And have fixed draws. When it's windy or when the rope is tugging on the draws it can work the nut loose and the hangar falls off... If someone is willing to do the work they oughta go through the roots with studs and then, tap around the bolt with a hammer to make sure the rock sounds good, if not move the bolt somewhere good. And use something better than a wedge bolt. Aug 27, 2020