Elevation: 4,317 ft
GPS: 44.302, -122.153 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,240 total · 417/month
Shared By: corvegas on May 14, 2006
Admins: Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

Largest monolith in Oregon home to some decent basalt sport as well as trad climbs. This is where the infamous Barad-Dur (III 5.9 A2 or 5.11A) Is, as well as possibly the only grade V in Oregon "Pooh Corner - V 5.9 A3".

Admin Note: Some of the best information available on Wolf Rock was through Tyler Adams (he added this page to MP). He was instrumental in adding many of the routes, and rebolting many dangerous routes with new bolts as well.
He sadly passed away in 2014 in a tragic plane accident, but his work lives on via his blog that he kept very updated. The link to the blog is below:
oregonchoss.blogspot.com/

Getting There

From Eugene, follow 126 East for roughly 35 minutes. At the Blue River Reservoir sign (past the first two signs you see for the Blue River), take a left onto Forest Route 15. You will pass H.J. Andrew's Experimental Forest on your right. About .3 of a mile past that, Route 15 forks to the right. Follow that, and continue for 8.1 miles to another fork on Route 15. STAY RIGHT AGAIN!! From this fork, Wolf Rock is roughly 1.4 miles up on the left. You can't miss it. Park at one of the two small pullouts on the south side of the road.

See the photos below for a Google maps image with correct turn by turn directions from the HWY.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wolf Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
 4
South Gully
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Right Corner Arete
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Navgrin
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 32
The Morgul Vale
Sport 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Black Kettle
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Forked Route
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Phadra
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Choppin' at the Bit
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Captain Courageous
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Cerberus
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Unchained
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
Barad Dur
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Gully S Gullies
 4
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad
Right Corner Arete Great Arch
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Navgrin Great Arch
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Morgul Vale S E Face
 32
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport 8 pitches
Black Kettle Great Arch
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Forked Route Great Arch
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Phadra Great Arch
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Choppin' at the Bit Great Arch
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Captain Courageous Great Arch
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cerberus S E Face
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Unchained Great Arch
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Barad Dur S E Face
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Wolf Rock »

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Photos