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Areas in Wolf Rock

Great Arch, The 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
South East Face 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
South Gullies 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 4,317 ft
GPS: 44.302, -122.153 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: corvegas on May 14, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Largest monolith in Oregon home to some decent basalt sport as well as trad climbs. This is where the infamous Barad-Dur (III 5.9 A2 or 5.11A) Is, as well as possibly the only grade V in Oregon "Pooh Corner - V 5.9 A3".

Admin Note: Some of the best information available on Wolf Rock was through Tyler Adams (he added this page to MP). He was instrumental in adding many of the routes, and rebolting many dangerous routes with new bolts as well.
He sadly passed away in 2014 in a tragic plane accident, but his work lives on via his blog that he kept very updated. The link to the blog is below:
http://oregonchoss.blogspot.com/

Getting There

From Eugene, follow 126 East for roughly 35 minutes. At the Blue River Reservoir sign (past the first two signs you see for the Blue River), take a left onto Forest Route 15. You will pass H.J. Andrew's Experimental Forest on your right. About .3 of a mile past that, Route 15 forks to the right. Follow that, and continue for 8.1 miles to another fork on Route 15. STAY RIGHT AGAIN!! From this fork, Wolf Rock is roughly 1.4 miles up on the left. You can't miss it. Park at one of the two small pullouts on the south side of the road.

See the photos below for a Google maps image with correct turn by turn directions from the HWY.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wolf Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Anyone know if the snow has melted and the road is clear? May 7, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Wolf Rock will be open unless there is fire in the direct area. Aug 14, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
I added a couple topo's by Tyler Adams, including one of Morgal Vale. Its a bit hard to follow if you don't know the area, but look for the well bolted slab start to it left of Barard Dur (5.3 grade). Jul 21, 2015
Hello. I'm looking for some beta on a route called Morgul Vale on Wolf Rock.

Does anyone have a topo that they'd be willing to share?
What is the runout situation? Any trad gear necessary?

Thanks for your help! Jul 21, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Should be mostly dry. The upper routes can get seepy, but the Arch ones should stay fairly dry, especially with this winter we've had. I don't Wolf ever got snow to really stick this winter. Mar 13, 2015
Hay Banks
Oregon
Hay Banks   Oregon
Heading up there soon, any current info about the condition of the place or stuff we all should know? Mar 13, 2015
Ball
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
BTW if anyone has a topo for Big Bad Wolf, please let me know!!! Feb 19, 2011
Ball
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
I got off route on Barad-Dur and both hand holds blew at the same time (I was conservatively 20ft above my last "pro").

In other words, typical Oregon climbing.

Pack a pair of balls and be prepared to shave after the route. It'll grow hair in new places! Feb 19, 2011
StrongArm
Bend, Oregon
StrongArm   Bend, Oregon
Barad-Dur: I completed this route on September 25, 2003. Barad-Dur is the best hard adventure route I've done in Oregon. I under-estimated the length of the route after the described pitches, it keeps going to the summit and the walk off is not easy. It didn't help that we climbed it on a hot, muggy day and ran out of water. We linked the first 2 pitches. The route's 2 crux pitches (4th and 5th) are very well protected and go at short, bouldery 10+ and 11- respectively. Every other pitch is pretty dirty and/or mossy, what I call "Oregon style", and a little spicy for the grade with a few 1/4 inch bolts. Great climb, no other people anywhere, easy access and camping along the FS road at the base. Take a single set of gear to #3 Camalot, no RPs or super small wires are necessary. Feb 14, 2010
Anybody have a topo/descriptions for the free variant to babra/dur????? Sep 11, 2009
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
For the sake of not getting lost, here are some better directions:

From Eugene, follow 126 East for roughly 35 minutes. At the Blue River Reservoir sign (past the first two signs you see for the Blue River), take a left onto Forest Route 15. You will pass H.J. Andrew's Experimental Forest on your right. About .3 of a mile past that, Route 15 forks to the right. Follow that, and continue for 8.1 miles to another fork on Route 15. STAY RIGHT AGAIN!! From this fork, Wolf Rock is roughly 1.4 miles up on the left. You can't miss it. Park at one of the two small pullouts on the south side of the road.

The majority of the forest service road is a single lane gravel road, but it is good shape. Nov 18, 2008

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