Avg: 3.5 from 38 votes
|Type:||Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||FA: Wayne Arrington & Mike Seeley on July 6-7, 1972 at (IV 5.8 A2) FFA: Peter Fralick & Chris Fralick on May 12, 1985 at (IV 5.11a)|
|Page Views:||13,924 total · 113/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Wright on Jul 30, 2011 · Updates|
|Admins:||Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
P1: Follow a line of well-spaced bolts on dark rock up to a bolted belay. 25m (5.9)
P2: Climb up and right past bolts until you can climb a somewhat loose & manky right-facing corner to another bolted belay. 25m (5.9)
Note: P1 & P2 can be linked with a 60m rope.
P3: Climb up past two bolts and trend slightly right along the cleanest rock to a third bolt. From here traverse up and left along ledges placing gear as necessary until reaching another bolted belay on a small ledge. 35m (5.8)
P4: Head up and right on easy climbing (5.4) along a low-angled ramp. Follow the ramp to a left-facing corner, and climb the corner until you can traverse left under a roof. Head left and then up to a belay stance with some unique bolt hangers. 40m (5.9)
P5. Head right and traverse past the obvious line of bolts and around the tricky corner, then up to a cramped, semi-hanging belay on your right. 15m (5.10d)
P6. Climb straight up passing bolts to the crux move over a roof. Make a strenuous mantle onto the sloping shelf on your right. From there, make an airy traverse out right around the corner and up to another bolted belay. 25m (5.11b)
P7: Head up and left on easy but sparsely protected terrain passing a two bolt anchor and following the path of least resistance towards the skyline ridge. 60m (5.4)
P8: Continue up on low-5th and 4th-class terrain until the technical climbing eases to scrambling. 60m (5.2)
Continue scrambling up and left following a narrow but exposed and loose ridge until you can eventually gain the summit pinnacle.
Descent: From the summit, trend west/southwest along the ridgeline following a faint trail when possible until you can gain the Southwest Gully descent. A mix of grassy hillsides and 3rd-4th class down-climbing in a water groove will lead down the drainage until it is possible to exit onto a climber's path on your left. Follow the path back to the road.
Thanks to an excellent re-bolting job, all of the belays are sound and all of the lead bolts that needed replacing have been replaced. A few old bolts do remain throughout the route, but it is unlikely that any will ruin your day.