Type: Sport, 140 ft (42 m)
GPS: 44.30131, -122.14792
FA: Tyler Adams & Chris Fralick 2010
Page Views: 1,256 total · 14/month
Shared By: Erik Keever on Aug 1, 2018
Admins: JD Merritt, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

From the deluxe-size belay ledge atop p1 of Edge of Mordor, Cerberus lies up and right. First climb ~65 feet of easy slab with fairly spaced out bolts. Extend or skip the bolt at the miniature "platform" that marks the transition to overhang to avoid doglegging the rope. Now proceed up another ~75 feet which slowly overhangs more the further you go.

I enjoyed this route immensely because I felt that nearly all of the movement flowed very well, with few awkward moments. Cerberus is a great sustained endurance test; The hardest move is perhaps .10a/b, and in the final five bolts so is the easiest. Look forward to big neutral edges, smaller incuts, and leaning back on phat pinchy slopers, all made of Wolf's wonderful sticky andesite. When you finally throw your arms onto the finish ledge, look down at the overhang that snuck up on you!

The anchor-to-ledge distance for a free hanging rope is approximately 38 meters. If you have a single 70, you can land on the 4th class ramp to the right & downclimb a bit. Wear a helmet: The upper topography of Wolf directs rockfall from roughly a million square feet of alpine rockfall toward this particular area.

Location Suggest change

From the Arch, continue right and head up to the "big wall" starting ledge. The 'hump' on it has one bolt above it: This is the original Gigantor. Left of this and trending up/left is Edge Of Mordor (5.8, 12 bolts), which forms the access pitch. Edge of Mordor tops out onto a giant belay ledge; This is the lower 4th class ledge system that runs across much of the southeast face.

From the ledge, you can climb Cerberus (up), continue Edge Of Mordor (left, the obvious foreboding dihedral crack), or run it out up the 4th class ledge system to arrive at the start of Morgul Vale pitch 3 (right).

Protection Suggest change

15 bolts total + bolted anchor

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