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Routes in South East Face

Barad Dur T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coligula T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Coreolis Effect T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Morgul Vale, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Wayne Arrington Solo
Page Views: 1,497 total · 12/month
Shared By: corvegas on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

This route is basically just a free solo. Don't count on any of the few peices of gear, or anchors to hold a fall. There is one bolted anchor above the chimney. The rest are usually slung blocks/hip belays.


P1&2 - 5.7 X - Follow weaknesses up to chimney. There is a 2 bolt belay above the chimney.

P3&4 - 5.6/5.7 X - Head left following obvious weaknesses. Bad pro and bad rock!

P5&6 - 5.5/4th X - Now your prolly on the chossy and mossy ridge head up following weaknesses to the top.

Location

Begin to the right of the arch, and follow the obviou bombay chimney weakness.

Protection

Small rack to "3 Wires are nice.

Photos

After looking @ the pitches drawn in the picture on this page, I now see I combined P3 & P4. To do this my partner and I had to use a running belay and traverse higher up than the lines drawn for P3. I don't recommend this because of excessive runout. I do recommend printing out the picture on this page for reference, though. Using radios to communicate was very helpful. Oct 24, 2013
Just climbed this route for the first time today and enjoyed all but the 3rd pitch. Had about an 80' runout on P3, lol. Get creative with anchors/pro and don't fall. Loose rock everywhere. :) Oct 24, 2013

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