All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (p) Spiderman Buttress

Spiderman

Name: Spiderman
Rating: 3.5

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in (p) Spiderman Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Best Left to Obscurity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Captain Fingers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cornerstone Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Explosive Energy Child T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	First Ascent Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Harmer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	In Harm's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Out of Harm's Way T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spiderman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spiderman Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Squashed Spider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stiff Little Fingers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Widow maker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Steve Strauch, Danny Gates 1969
Page Views:	44,316 total · 210/month
Shared By:	Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Spiderman is one of the great moderate trad climbs at Smith. This crack on the tuft is surprisingly solid and has some surprisingly exciting moves for such a moderately graded climb.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Begin on the right side of a large ramp. Climb up a right angling crack to a bolted anchor on the left. . . or continue on and link up pitch 2

Pitch 2: 5.7 Continue up the hand crack in the dihedral above. Belay at bolt anchors on the face.

Pitch 3: 5.7 From the belay move right into a seam that quickly opens into a fingercrack. Take this crack to the improbable roof. Pull the roof and continue up easy climbing to a chain anchor on top. Watch rope drag!

Alternate Pitch 3: This easier but less popular variation lacks the luster of the regular finish. From the belay you can take the crack heading up and left avoiding the roof.

Descent: You can rappel the route with two ropes but pulling the ropes can be nasty.

A walk-off descent to climber's right requires a bit of scrambling but is potentially less hassle.