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Routes in (p) Spiderman Buttress

Best Left to Obscurity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Captain Fingers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Explosive Energy Child T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
First Ascent Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
In Harm's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Out of Harm's Way T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squashed Spider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff Little Fingers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Strauch, Danny Gates 1969
Page Views: 31,355 total, 218/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Spiderman is one of the great moderate trad climbs at Smith. This crack on the tuft is surprisingly solid and has some surprisingly exciting moves for such an moderately graded climb.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Begin on the right side of a large ramp. climb up a right angling crack to a bolted anchor on the left. . . or continue on and link up pitch 2

Pitch 2: 5.7 Continue up the hand crack in the dihedral above. Belay at bolt anchors on the face.

Pitch 3: 5.7 From the belay move left into a seam that quickly opens into a fingercrack. Take this crack to the improbable roof. Pull the roof and continue up easy climbing to a chain anchor on top. Watch rope drag!

Alternate Pitch 3: This easier but less popular variation lacks the luster of the regular finish. From the belay you can take the crack heading up and left avoiding the roof.

Descent: You can rappel the route with two ropes but pulling the ropes can be nasty.

A walk off descent to climber's right requires a bit of scrambling but is easier.

Protection

Stand double cam rack to 3.5 inches w/ standard nuts selection

All anchors are bolted
ska75  
Beautiful and easy climb with good pro.

youtube.com/watch?v=04lFDTP… 5 days ago
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.7
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.7
Really enjoyed this route. My partner and I linked p1 and p2 so two pitches total. I led the first pitch and used mostly cams with two larger hexes and one nut. I found that the nut placements were marginal at best. Hexes were bomber.

My partner led the move to the right of the roof using all cams, including a hand-size cam in the roof crack.

We chose to walk-off using the 4th class gully (there are at least two to choose from).

Also, if you're coming in from the east-side, you can totally use Cinnamon Slab to get to Spiderman. Just do the two pitches and walk up the climber's trail to the right. Then drop down one of the 4th class gullies. Boom: you're at the base of Spiderman! Oct 22, 2017
Isaac
Portland
Isaac   Portland
Regarding the descent, it seems to often be more windy on the backside of Smith and today was no exception. Due to this, we decided to walk off. If you go this route, scramble up to the top of the ridge and follow a trail (climbers right) for just a hundred feet or so as it wraps around some large boulders, then head down a moderate slope to a 10-15 foot down climb. I had no trouble in my approach shoes in waning light, but gave my partner a hip belay for added security. From here it’s another 100 feet or so down the hill to the start of route. Again, if walking off, take the first right around the block and down. Continuing down the ridge trail did not yield and better options (that we found). Awesome route! Oct 17, 2017
Ben Bilbrough
Beaverton, OR
  5.7
Ben Bilbrough   Beaverton, OR
  5.7
Did this last weekend, and there is no rope ladder.

I walked off to climbers right and climbed down and to skiers left, there was an easy scramble down with a 4' drop off that wasn't too bad. Helped my shorter friend down. Oct 2, 2017
Dan Stringer
Eugene, OR
Dan Stringer   Eugene, OR
I did this route last month, and I would recommend the walk off. There is a good amount of loose rock up top. The walk off is easy, has some great views, and is faster than rapping.
There was also a fairly new looking rope ladder set up to avoid any short rappels mentioned above. Sep 29, 2016
Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
  5.7
Ben Stabley   Portland, OR
  5.7
Ha. I wish I had read the rack recommendations before climbing this with just a single rack of cams to #3 C4. I broke P1 (what the description calls P1 & P2) into 2 so I'd have gear for the overhanging part. Had a few good tricam placements too. The climbing on Spiderman is different from your typical Smith 5.7, but felt like a 5.7 to me. Jun 13, 2016
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
Portland, OR
 
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman   Portland, OR
 
This route would get 4 stars if the second pitch was more sustained. It is however, an awesome route! Apr 15, 2016
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
The walk off is easy, do it if the base is busy. The rap can be done, but you will likely knock rocks off on climbers below, as was the case this past weekend. Oct 13, 2015
another Chad  
 
Nick, I totally agree that climbing Spiderman in two pitches is the way to go. I think the confusion lies in having the Squashed Spider anchor in the middle of the first pitch. People see it and assume they need to stop.

Chad Sep 18, 2015
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.7
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.7
Awesome route!! Easy, fun, low-stress and high-enjoyment climbing. We rapped the route with no issues at all...

I've got no idea why you would do this in any more than two pitches, and I'm no badass. If you did it in three (as described), you would have three extremely short pitches. May 7, 2015
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
There is fun 3rd finish to Spiderman. Instead of heading left for the thin crack go up and right until you get to the left corner of the roof. Traverse under the roof until you get to the amazing 5.7 airy move around the right side of the roof. Bring an extra 3" cams for the traverse.
I alternated between this variation and the jam crack for decades (since the 80s). I had found this variation more fun and slightly easier (maybe 5.6) then the thin 5.7 crack. Feb 28, 2015
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.7
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.7
The walk off was very doable, though perhaps a bit exposed for novice climbers. The fixed rope is manky - held in place by a knot in a crack above the chimney / gulley and is part way worn through. This being said, I downclimbed the short chimney just fine.

Fantastic climb and a must-do for any trad leader of this grade. Sep 23, 2014
Dance Party
Seattle, Wa
  5.7
Dance Party   Seattle, Wa
  5.7
Climbed it this past weekend. Didn't take anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. Linked the first two pitches. Walked off the back. It looks possible to rap back down to the other side of the wall. I'm not sure what the route is, but i saw some rap bolts up top and while looking at them i could see Karate Crack to skiers right. Super fun climb. Be sure to extend the anchor at the top of pitch 2 to take advantage of the awesome belay seat right on the edge of the arete. Oct 16, 2013
This route is not listed in the Raptor Closures for 2013, but there are a pair of nesting hawks with 4 eggs in the crack before the second set of bolted anchors as of April. Please stay off the route so as not to disturb them further. Apr 22, 2013
another Chad  
 
I agree with what Ray said above. Consider walking off, it's safe, easy, quick and you won't be getting in the way of any following parties. Walk climber's right from Spiderman to the obvious descent.

Regarding the top-out: please be extra careful, there's quite a bit of loose rock up there and people tend to congregate at the base of this route.


Chad Dec 1, 2012
hotlum
Bend, Oregon
 
hotlum   Bend, Oregon
 
4 stars Oct 7, 2012
Ray Pinpillage
West Egg
Ray Pinpillage   West Egg
I've seen ropes get stuck rapping the line. Just walk off. There is an easy 5th decent in the ledges/gully climbers right of the buttress. There is also a fixed line down through a flake to the left of the decent gully. Walking down is faster and easier than rapping. Oct 6, 2012
Floyd Hayes
  5.8
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8
Forget the nuts--I didn't use a single one. The cracks eat up medium to big cams--taking two sets would be useful. Where was the class 4 walkoff? We wound up descending the last 10' by hand on an old fixed rope with knots. Jul 18, 2012
Jason D
 
Jason D  
 
Ran into some angry bats in the hand crack on pitch two. Mar 13, 2012
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.7
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.7
Climbed for the first time yesterday. Lead both pitches. Mostly easy climbing, except for the move to get up to the 1st belay, and getting around the roof. There is one final slightly-tricky move just at the end too.

You should definitely skip the first set of anchors. The first bit of climbing is super easy and there is pretty much no rope drag to the second anchor. Besides, one of the anchors is setup for the sport route up the face, and the other (with the rap rings) is in a position where you can't stand up while clipped in unless you have a very long runner/daisy chain/whatever.

Will second the usefulness of a #4 BD. Used it on the first pitch, above the first set of anchors.

Not sure where the established trail leads, but there is an exposed easy-5th-class boulder descent of about 20 feet to bring you down at the top of the gully above and to the right of where you start the route.

The route is ABSOLUTELY set up for rappelling: simple, safe, and easy. Just rap from the top anchors to the top of the buttress (that anchor you skipped earlier). A single 60m rope will get you there with some feet to spare (knot your ends!). I clipped into the sport anchor so I could stand up comfortably while I waited for my friend to rap. Rope did jam a little bit on the first tug, but with a little flicking came free. Pulled the rope, got showered with some small rocks (it's quite dirty at the top), then rappelled to the ground.

SWEET, SWEET, SWEET ROUTE! Nov 7, 2010
Just did it on sunday. All three of us rapped it on double 60 meter ropes tied together. Rope was retrieved, just gotta make sure it will pull. Might have to pull hard but it'll come. May 13, 2009
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.7
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.7
Phenomenal route in the grade...best done as 2 pitches. And I'm not sure what all the talk about the top anchors not being set up for rappelling is all about--We rapped the route in two rappels this past Saturday easily with one 60m rope. No snags, no ropes in other parties faces...nothing. Sep 15, 2008
This is generally thought of as a two pitch route (skip the first anchors), it can also be done as one pitch with a 70 meter rope if you are comfortable at the grade. Last anchors are not set up for rappel so plan on walking off which requires some third class down climbing. Feb 10, 2007
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
I hear you Sam. I would recommend the walk off also. Jul 1, 2006
Rapping from the top anchors to the first set will get your rope stuck, at least we did, our rope is still up there. It's best to do the walkoff that includes small raps and downclimbing. Apr 4, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Aren't the first pitch anchors the fat Metolious bolts that you can rap from???? Mar 27, 2006
don't rap the route, it's not set up for it (last I saw). Mar 17, 2006