All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge

West Side Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in West Side

(1) Parched Cat Cliff (aka Cox Rocks) 9 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

(2) Wildfire Wall 22 / 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37

(3) Catwalk Cliff 32 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38

(4) Star Wall 14 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

(5) Jungle Land 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Elevation:	2,722 ft
GPS:	44.36851, -121.13117 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	201,416 total · 1,004/month
Shared By:	Peter Franzen on Sep 26, 2006
Admins:	Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

These basalt columns are on the rimrock on the West side of the river. Due to their location they receive shade almost all day and make for a great place to escape the sun.

There are a remarkable number of truly spectacular climbs here. A quick glance at the ratings of the routes in this area shows an incredible number of 4-star climbs, and everyone visiting Smith Rock owes it to him/herself to check out this area.

Getting There

From the turnaround at the northern end of the parking area head East to the rim. Find a place where there are detached pillars and a rebar ladder going down a chimney. Climb down this chimney and head upriver (southeast). After crossing a large slide of small boulders you'll see the start of many pillars that are the lower gorge.

A second method of descent is my preference. This "secret entrance" once went through private property but now is owned by the park. This way also starts at the turnaround parking lot. Park and then head back up the road until you see a driveway leading to a house on the east. This house is now owned by the park. Go behind the house and through a gate. Walk along the rim for about a 100ft to find an improbable but easy 3rd class descent into the gorge.

111 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 121 ● Patent Leather Pump Trad (3) Catwalk Cliff
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 257 ● Cruel Sister Trad (3) Catwalk Cliff
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 182 ● Gruff Trad (2) Wildfire Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 185 ● Bad Finger Trad (2) Wildfire Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 146 ● Blood Clot Trad (3) Catwalk Cliff
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 125 ● Wildfire Trad (2) Wildfire Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 92 ● Rim Job Trad (2) Wildfire Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 100 ● Cornercopia Trad (2) Wildfire Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 110 ● Quasar Trad (3) Catwalk Cliff
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 98 ● Last Chance Trad (3) Catwalk Cliff
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 58 ● Prometheus Trad (3) Catwalk Cliff
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 201 ● Pure Palm Sport (2) Wildfire Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 75 ● On The Road Trad (2) Wildfire Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 66 ● Crack-A-No-Go Trad (3) Catwalk Cliff
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 58 ● White Trash Sport (2) Wildfire Wall

● Patent Leather Pump

(3) Catwalk Cliff

121

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Cruel Sister

(3) Catwalk Cliff

257

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Gruff

(2) Wildfire Wall

182

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Bad Finger

(2) Wildfire Wall

185