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Elevation: 2,722 ft 830 m
GPS: 44.36851, -121.13117
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 202,542 total · 941/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Sep 26, 2006
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

These basalt columns are on the rimrock on the West side of the river. Due to their location they receive shade almost all day and make for a great place to escape the sun.

There are a remarkable number of truly spectacular climbs here. A quick glance at the ratings of the routes in this area shows an incredible number of 4-star climbs, and everyone visiting Smith Rock owes it to him/herself to check out this area.

Getting There Suggest change

From the turnaround at the northern end of the parking area head East to the rim. Find a place where there are detached pillars and a rebar ladder going down a chimney. Climb down this chimney and head upriver (southeast). After crossing a large slide of small boulders you'll see the start of many pillars that are the lower gorge.

A second method of descent is my preference. This "secret entrance" once went through private property but now is owned by the park. This way also starts at the turnaround parking lot. Park and then head back up the road until you see a driveway leading to a house on the east. This house is now owned by the park. Go behind the house and through a gate. Walk along the rim for about a 100ft to find an improbable but easy 3rd class descent into the gorge.

113 Total Climbs

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Location: West Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 291
Cruel Sister
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 210
Bad Finger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 162
Blood Clot
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 139
Wildfire
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Morning Star
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 106
Last Chance
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 68
Prometheus
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 224
Pure Palm
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 85
On The Road
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 49
Cry of the Poor
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 78
Crack-A-No-Go
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 65
Pet Cemetary
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 66
White Trash
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Try To Be Hip
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cruel Sister (3) Catwalk Cliff
 291
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bad Finger (2) Wildfire Wall
 210
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blood Clot (3) Catwalk Cliff
 162
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wildfire (2) Wildfire Wall
 139
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Morning Star (4) Star Wall
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Last Chance (3) Catwalk Cliff
 106
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Prometheus (3) Catwalk Cliff
 68
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Pure Palm (2) Wildfire Wall
 224
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
On The Road (2) Wildfire Wall
 85
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cry of the Poor (2) Wildfire Wall
 49
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Crack-A-No-Go (3) Catwalk Cliff
 78
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Pet Cemetary (3) Catwalk Cliff
 65
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
White Trash (2) Wildfire Wall
 66
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Try To Be Hip (2) Wildfire Wall
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) (3) Catwalk Cliff
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Side »

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