Elevation: 2,722 ft
GPS: 44.369, -121.131 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 120,799 total · 725/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Sep 26, 2006
Admins: Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

These basalt columns are on the rimrock on the West side of the river. Due to their location they receive shade almost all day and make for a great place to escape the sun.

There are a remarkable number of truly spectacular climbs here. A quick glance at the ratings of the routes in this area shows an incredible number of 4-star climbs, and everyone visiting Smith Rock owes it to him/herself to check out this area.

Getting There

From the turnaround at the northern end of the parking area head East to the rim. Find a place where there are detached pillars and a rebar ladder going down a chimney. Climb down this chimney and head upriver (southeast). After crossing a large slide of small boulders you'll see the start of many pillars that are the lower gorge.

A second method of descent is my preference. This "secret entrance" once went through private property but now is owned by the park. This way also starts at the turnaround parking lot. Park and then head back up the road until you see a driveway leading to a house on the east. This house is now owned by the park. Go behind the house and through a gate. Walk along the rim for about a 100ft to find an improbable but easy 3rd class descent into the gorge.

101 Total Climbs

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Location: West Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 87
Patent Leather Pump
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 199
Cruel Sister
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 150
Gruff
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 81
Quasar
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 147
Bad Finger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 109
Blood Clot
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 96
Wildfire
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
Rim Job
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 81
Cornercopia
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 43
Morning Star
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 70
Last Chance
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 159
Pure Palm
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 55
On The Road
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 51
Crack-A-No-Go
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
White Trash
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Patent Leather Pump (3) Catwalk Cliff
 87
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cruel Sister (3) Catwalk Cliff
 199
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Gruff (2) Wildfire Wall
 150
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Quasar (3) Catwalk Cliff
 81
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Bad Finger (2) Wildfire Wall
 147
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blood Clot (3) Catwalk Cliff
 109
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wildfire (2) Wildfire Wall
 96
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rim Job (2) Wildfire Wall
 76
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cornercopia (2) Wildfire Wall
 81
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Morning Star (4) Star Wall
 43
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Last Chance (3) Catwalk Cliff
 70
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Pure Palm (2) Wildfire Wall
 159
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
On The Road (2) Wildfire Wall
 55
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Crack-A-No-Go (3) Catwalk Cliff
 51
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
White Trash (2) Wildfire Wall
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Side »

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