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Areas in West Side

(1) Parched Cat Cliff (aka Cox Rocks) 8 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
(2) Wildfire Wall 21 / 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
(3) Catwalk Cliff 27 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
(4) Star Wall 14 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
(5) Jungle Land 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Description

These basalt columns are on the rimrock on the West side of the river. Due to their location they receive shade almost all day and make for a great place to escape the sun.

There are a remarkable number of truly spectacular climbs here. A quick glance at the ratings of the routes in this area shows an incredible number of 4-star climbs, and everyone visiting Smith Rock owes it to him/herself to check out this area.

Getting There

From the turnaround at the northern end of the parking area head East to the rim. Find a place where there are detached pillars and a rebar ladder going down a chimney. Climb down this chimney and head upriver (southeast). After crossing a large slide of small boulders you'll see the start of many pillars that are the lower gorge.

A second method of descent is my preference. This "secret entrance" once went through private property but now is owned by the park. This way also starts at the turnaround parking lot. Park and then head back up the road until you see a driveway leading to a house on the east. This house is now owned by the park. Go behind the house and through a gate. Walk along the rim for about a 100ft to find an improbable but easy 3rd class descent into the gorge.

100 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 160
Cruel Sister
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 129
Gruff
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 68
Quasar
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 127
Bad Finger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 95
Blood Clot
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 80
Wildfire
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 67
Rim Job
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 70
Cornercopia
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 40
Morning Star
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 57
Last Chance
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 39
Prometheus
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 141
Pure Palm
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 46
On The Road
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 41
Crack-A-No-Go
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 31
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cruel Sister (3) Catwalk Cliff
 160
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Gruff (2) Wildfire Wall
 129
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Quasar (3) Catwalk Cliff
 68
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Bad Finger (2) Wildfire Wall
 127
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blood Clot (3) Catwalk Cliff
 95
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wildfire (2) Wildfire Wall
 80
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rim Job (2) Wildfire Wall
 67
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cornercopia (2) Wildfire Wall
 70
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Morning Star (4) Star Wall
 40
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Last Chance (3) Catwalk Cliff
 57
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Prometheus (3) Catwalk Cliff
 39
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Pure Palm (2) Wildfire Wall
 141
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
On The Road (2) Wildfire Wall
 46
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Crack-A-No-Go (3) Catwalk Cliff
 41
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) (3) Catwalk Cliff
 31
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Side »

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Photos

Stellar traditional basalt climbing. When your tips are fried from nubbin’ crimping and bolt clipping, head here to jam and plug gear. Bring your head game too - the climbing is technical and grades are full value. Apr 5, 2018

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