Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Landrum & Ken Currens 3/75
Page Views: 2,703 total · 17/month
Shared By: rpc on Jan 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

40 Opinions

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Finding this classic route is trivial: hike the trail till you see the 2-foot etching of a climber in the rock. Route starts on left side of the etching. Route offers perfect pro all the way. Stem and jam a 1-inch crack (10-). Crux hits about 30-40 feet up as the stems run out and the finger jams become very shallow. Going eases somewhat just above as some wide stemming again becomes possible. Note the cool hand holds just below double bolt anchors.


Conservative rack includes many cams in the red Alien and/or #0.5 Camalot size. Double green and yellow Aliens. Triple #0.75 Camalots. Double #1 Camalots. A handful of small to mid-sized nuts. No larger cams needed. This is a conservative rack - i.e. hard route for me.


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great route... but this felt significantly harder than Last Chance.

This route is deceptively steep, and offers few "in balance" rests. The first crux hits midway, and it is somewhat disconcerting that all your pro is behind a somewhat hollow sounding flake. I found this first crux surprisingly tricky - the feet vanish and you need to crank on some finger jams that are slightly off balance. There is another crux higher up as well.

This route will take as many green to yellow aliens (blue to yellow mastercams) and #0.5 camalots as you can throw at it. I didn't find a place a #1 and only placed one green camalot. Some medium nuts were handy as well. I was definitely happy to have more than 2 yellow mastercams. May 19, 2011
Bend, OR
CritConrad   Bend, OR
Stout for the grade. I would recommend triples in .5 or .4 BD and not .75. Don't miss this climb! Oct 17, 2012
I added an extension to morning star. It adds another 25 ft or so of climbing. You can reach the ground with a 70m rope. Bolts and an optional small to medium sized cam. See Asteroid Dust for more beta. Aug 11, 2014