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Routes in (4) Star Wall

Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Star T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Levitate T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mantra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neutron Star T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Landrum & Ken Currens 3/75
Page Views: 2,378 total, 16/month
Shared By: rpc on Jan 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Finding this classic route is trivial: hike the trail till you see the 2-foot etching of a climber in the rock. Route starts on left side of the etching. Route offers perfect pro all the way. Stem and jam a 1-inch crack (10-). Crux hits about 30-40 feet up as the stems run out and the finger jams become very shallow. Going eases somewhat just above as some wide stemming again becomes possible. Note the cool hand holds just below double bolt anchors.

Protection

Conservative rack includes many cams in the red Alien and/or #0.5 Camalot size. Double green and yellow Aliens. Triple #0.75 Camalots. Double #1 Camalots. A handful of small to mid-sized nuts. No larger cams needed. This is a conservative rack - i.e. hard route for me.

Photos

I added an extension to morning star. It adds another 45 ft or so of climbing. You can reach the ground with a 70m rope. Use small gear to protect. See Asteroid Dust for more beta. Aug 11, 2014
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.10c
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.10c
Stout for the grade. I would recommend triples in .5 or .4 BD and not .75. Don't miss this climb! Oct 17, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Great route... but this felt significantly harder than Last Chance.

This route is deceptively steep, and offers few "in balance" rests. The first crux hits midway, and it is somewhat disconcerting that all your pro is behind a somewhat hollow sounding flake. I found this first crux surprisingly tricky - the feet vanish and you need to crank on some finger jams that are slightly off balance. There is another crux higher up as well.

This route will take as many green to yellow aliens (blue to yellow mastercams) and #0.5 camalots as you can throw at it. I didn't find a place a #1 and only placed one green camalot. Some medium nuts were handy as well. I was definitely happy to have more than 2 yellow mastercams. May 19, 2011