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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Landrum, Ken Currens, March 1975
Page Views: 3,510 total, 25/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


69 Opinions

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Description

The crux of this classic climb is the first half of the route. Insecure feet and thin fingers in the tight starting dihedral lead to a ledge at halfway. From here, a somewhat easier finger crack ends at a steep jumbled headwall. Rap anchors are just right of this, around a blind corner.

Location

West end of Wildfire Wall (South side of the Crooked River).

Protection

Pro to 2 1/2 inches. Passive pro tricky to place in the first half due to bottlenecks being very narrow and inward crack flaring. Cams work great in this section.

Photos

Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
Don't skip this if you are in the gorge, really good example of moderate gorge crack. Fun to do laps on. Dec 13, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Update October 2014:

Wildfire now has its own rap anchor with chains, so you no longer need to do the awkward and annoying step right. Big fatty 1/2" bolts added by Kent 10/2014. Oct 11, 2014
ferrells  
 
I made the mistake of pulling the easy roof at the top, only to find no anchors. After my partner checked the book, I had to down climb to climber's right to get to them.
I liked the climb, but not as much as Badfinger, which is more continuous. Jun 5, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
Long slings on the last two pieces mandatory. May 30, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10b
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10b
Save some small gear for the top, plus some slings. I didn't bring enough and the rope drag going to the anchors was kinda annoying. Apr 30, 2009
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
I didn't find nuts that hard to place. I think that's mostly what i used through the crux. There's a natural thread at the top of the crack, before the step over to the anchors. Dec 21, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Some body english helps through the start crux section. Then enjoyable hands and fingers until the eventual step right to the anchors. Fun, but I don't think as good as others on this wall. Oct 22, 2006