Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Thomas, Jack Callahan -Jan 1975
Page Views: 3,825 total · 25/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Description

Blood Clot is fun climb that would be more noteworthy if its location were further away from the spectacular Cruel Sister.

It is generally considered easier than Cruel Sister for some with a more difficult crux section. Still it is a very nice climb that takes takes great pro.

Location

This climb lies just to the right of Crack-A-No-Go and to the left of a pidgeon-shit covered ledge. Bolted anchors allow convenient lowering.

Protection

Nuts and Cams to #3 camalot.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I find this to be a bit harder than cruel sister, though nowhere near as sustained. A #4 is nice at the top, but certainly not required. Triple #2s help with the easy crack at the top. May 10, 2011
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Generally agreed to have a harder crux than Cruel Sister, although less sustained. If you're solid on hands/cups, then Cruel Sister will feel easier than this. If fingerlocks are your thing, then this will feel easier than Cruel Sister.

A fun variation is "Blood Go", where you traverse left into Crack A No Go about 12-15' below the chains and climb the last bit of that (they share the same chains). The last bit of Blood Clot is not as aesthetic as the last part of Crack A No Go, so this linkup gives you the most aesthetic experience, and the traverse move is pretty fun. Oct 11, 2014
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
 
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
 
I TRed this and Cruel Sister and thought this seemed easier. I led Quasar and thought this was even a bit easier than that. It's a very fun route and next time I go to the LG I will likely climb it again. Mar 13, 2015
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
 
Getting greasy at the crux. Jun 27, 2017