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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Grover, Jim Davis, 1980
Page Views: 3,515 total, 25/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

The technical crux hits soon after the start with a thin crack through a bulge that is finger size dependent. Larger fingers require face moves while smaller fingers can use the thin crack. Fighting the pump to the finish is the other crux of this classic route. A great climb.

Location

Wildfire Wall

Protection

Gear to 2 1/2 inches including small cams.

Photos

Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
Pretty much a boulder problem crux, everything after is sinker jamming. Good stuff, though. Dec 20, 2016
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11a
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11a
For a lower gorge 5.11, this thing actually has tons of super solid gear through the whole thing. You can do it perfectly safely with two blue Mastercams/TCUs as your smallest pro. Some might want a purple mastercam as well, but not actually necessary. Considering many other 5.11 trad lines in the gorge require tiny micronuts or long runouts with no pro, the gear on this thing is super safe and super straightforward. I would say from a safety/ease of gear perspective, this is the best 5.11 trad onsight in the Lower Gorge.

The rock at the crux is totally solid. There is a block a little further up that has a chalk X on it, but I yard on it every time and have never felt it move. Maybe just don't place pro behind it (tons of pro immediately above and below anyway). Aug 31, 2014
Has anyone else noticed how hollow sounding the right side of the crack is in the thin flared crux bit? A bit alarming but I'd imagine protection placed in that rock has held plenty of falls. Mar 1, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
Less of a battle the second time, but still a battle. C3s (purple to red) are key at the crux. Plus more small cams for the start. After the crux there is a good big offset nut and a good HB #6 brass. Then it steadily goes from #0.5 camalots to #2 camalots. Most mortals will want a good helping - especially the #0.5/#0.75s . There is a solid 20' of sustained rattly fingers and ringlocks without feet. When it finally goes to hands, it gets overhung so its still no walk in the park. Oh yeah! Aug 23, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
This climb kicked my ass - plain and simple. Bring small (I mean small!) cams for the first crux section exiting the awkward flare. The middle section of rattly fingers, while easier, is no cake walk. The final bit of hands is a welcome relief.
Oct 21, 2007