Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Grover, Jim Davis, 1980
Page Views: 3,968 total · 26/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

The technical crux hits soon after the start with a thin crack through a bulge that is finger size dependent. Larger fingers require face moves while smaller fingers can use the thin crack. Fighting the pump to the finish is the other crux of this classic route. A great climb.

Location

Wildfire Wall

Protection

Gear to 2 1/2 inches including small cams.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
This climb kicked my ass - plain and simple. Bring small (I mean small!) cams for the first crux section exiting the awkward flare. The middle section of rattly fingers, while easier, is no cake walk. The final bit of hands is a welcome relief.
Oct 21, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
Less of a battle the second time, but still a battle. C3s (purple to red) are key at the crux. Plus more small cams for the start. After the crux there is a good big offset nut and a good HB #6 brass. Then it steadily goes from #0.5 camalots to #2 camalots. Most mortals will want a good helping - especially the #0.5/#0.75s . There is a solid 20' of sustained rattly fingers and ringlocks without feet. When it finally goes to hands, it gets overhung so its still no walk in the park. Oh yeah! Aug 23, 2011
Has anyone else noticed how hollow sounding the right side of the crack is in the thin flared crux bit? A bit alarming but I'd imagine protection placed in that rock has held plenty of falls. Mar 1, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11a
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11a
For a lower gorge 5.11, this thing actually has tons of super solid gear through the whole thing. You can do it perfectly safely with two blue Mastercams/TCUs as your smallest pro. Some might want a purple mastercam as well, but not actually necessary. Considering many other 5.11 trad lines in the gorge require tiny micronuts or long runouts with no pro, the gear on this thing is super safe and super straightforward. I would say from a safety/ease of gear perspective, this is the best 5.11 trad onsight in the Lower Gorge.

The rock at the crux is totally solid. There is a block a little further up that has a chalk X on it, but I yard on it every time and have never felt it move. Maybe just don't place pro behind it (tons of pro immediately above and below anyway). Aug 31, 2014
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
Pretty much a boulder problem crux, everything after is sinker jamming. Good stuff, though. Dec 20, 2016