Lower Gorge Rock Climbing
|GPS:||44.369, -121.131 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||200,905 total · 1,127/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Jan 29, 2006|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
Even on Smith's busiest days there are usually only a handful of crack connoisseurs in this serene area. The Gorge is composed of a series of striking vertical basalt columns located on both sides of the crooked river. The rock is generally of superb quality with sometimes sharp edges and good friction.
Although the most classic crack lines were done long ago there are still a few new mixed lines going up as well as 2nd pitches going to the top of the formation.
West Columns approaches:
From the turnaround at the northern end of the parking area head East to the rim. Find a place where there are detached pillars and a rebar ladder going down a chimney. Climb down this chimney and head upriver (southeast). After crossing a large slide of small boulders you'll see the start of many pillars that are the lower gorge.
A second method of descent is my preference. This way also starts at the turnaround parking lot. Park and then head back up the road until you see a driveway leading to a house on the east. This house is now owned by the park. Go behind the house and through a gate. Walk along the rim for about a 100ft to find an improbable but easy 3rd class descent into the gorge.
The initial section down-climbing into the Gorge has been the site of 3 very serious or fatal accidents. The difficulty of the moves are similar to 3rd class terrain, but a fall WILL result in significant trauma. Pay attention to your footing and any clothing or pack that can catch on the rocks. Snow and mud can also make this approach treacherous.
East Columns descent:
Descend the main trail toward the river. Cross the bridge and follow a nice trail next to the river to the right. Make sure to stay near the river as alternate trails head to other areas of the park. Pass the student wall, a series of shorter columns, until you arrive a the longer columns of the lower gorge.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Gorge
Days w Precip