Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (3) Hand Job Wall

Blitzen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blitzkrieg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cody's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Demander Cody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippo Wrestling S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Independene Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Into White T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Jism T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost and Found T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lube me up, Scotty T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McKenzie's Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mines of Moria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
My Friend of Misery S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Original Sin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Strawberry Blond T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly As Sin T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Wayne Arrington, Tom Bowman, 1975
Page Views: 1,436 total, 10/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


42 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A tricky bouldering start is probably the crux of this route. Good protection soon follows with stemming/jamming moves up a set of double cracks. A very good route that I think borders on classic.

Location

Hand Job Wall (on the north side of the Crooked River)

Protection

Gear to 2 1/2 inches.

Photos

phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
LOL! Wrote in my book on this one "Start desperate on lead". I guess I should have let a tall person lead it! Oct 21, 2017
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b/c
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b/c
The first couple moves off the deck are very hard for 10b. I have watched many leaders jump off the start multiple times before getting it. The landing is somewhat awkward, so a good spot is key. Two spotters is even better.

Once you're past the start, the rest of the route is soft for 10b. Fun stemming and double-crack climbing, although there's not really all that much hand jamming on it. Really Original Sin should have been called Hand Job, since Original Sin is almost completely hands. Oct 11, 2014
rpc
 
rpc  
 
If you're tall (enough), the starting crux is a one-move wonder which is then followed by fun stemming & double finger crack jamming to the anchors. Jun 10, 2011