Elevation: 2,724 ft
GPS: 44.368, -121.13 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,527 total · 172/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Sep 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

The East side of the Lower Gorge contains a handful of basalt cliffs with plenty of worthy crack climbs. They're not quite the classics that are found on the West side and the long approach keeps away most climbers, but they're worth checking out.

Getting There

Descend the main trail toward the river. Cross the bridge and follow a nice trail next to the river to the right. Make sure to stay near the river as alternate trails head to other areas of the park. Pass the student wall, a series of shorter columns, until you arrive at the longer columns of the lower gorge.

65 Total Climbs

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Location: East Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 16
Mines of Moria
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Othello
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Azog
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Demander Cody
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Sauron
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Puck
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 51
Hand Job
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Original Sin
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 33
Much Ado About Nothing
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
Master Looney
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Hard Attack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
Feel the Bern
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
The Sheepgate
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Measure for Measure
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Hippo Wrestling
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mines of Moria (3) Hand Job Wall
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Othello (5) Shakespeare Cliff
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Azog (5) Shakespeare Cliff
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Demander Cody (3) Hand Job Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sauron (5) Shakespeare Cliff
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Puck (5) Shakespeare Cliff
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hand Job (3) Hand Job Wall
 51
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Original Sin (3) Hand Job Wall
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Much Ado About Nothing (5) Shakespeare Cliff
 33
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Master Looney (4) Arrington Columns
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Hard Attack (2) Windfall Wall
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Feel the Bern (2) Windfall Wall
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Sheepgate (2) Windfall Wall
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Measure for Measure (5) Shakespeare Cliff
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hippo Wrestling (3) Hand Job Wall
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in East Side »

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Photos

Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
An easier way to get to the east side is to approach as for Cruel Sister and then cross the river. This works on and off throughout the year, depending on how much water is being diverted from the river. It avoids the unpleasant thrash between the So Lo and Windfall Walls. Dec 21, 2006
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
You can check the river level here to determine if the short approach (crossing the river near the Cruel Sister area) is possible:

dreamflows.com/graphs/day.5…

We did it today at about 270 cfs; two of the rocks in the middle were wet and it was a little sketchy, I wouldn't do it any higher.

Even when dry, the river-polished basalt boulders are extremely slippery... be careful. May 29, 2017