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Routes in (3) Hand Job Wall

Blitzen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blitzkrieg T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cody's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Demander Cody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hazy Shade of Summer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hippo Wrestling S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Independene Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Into White T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Jism T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost and Found T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lube me up, Scotty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
McKenzie's Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mines of Moria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
My Friend of Misery S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Original Sin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Strawberry Blond T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly As Sin T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Farrell
Page Views: 1,389 total · 33/month
Shared By: Matt Farrell on Mar 25, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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If arete slapping and compression climbing are your bag, and you can boulder v6, then you must come do this route. Unique, thoughtful, bouldery cruxes in the first half and killer compression endurance for the second half add up to one hell of a climb. An aesthetic, striking feature visible from the whole Lower Gorge, one of the hardest lines in the Lower Gorge, and a ridiculously awesome view (and photo op!) only add to the appeal.

Start on the right arete, and be careful clipping the 2nd (very balancey clip). The first half of the climb features boulder problems split by rests that range from just ok to excellent. For me they felt v3ish, v4ish, and v6ish, though I'm not that good of a boulderer, so I could be wrong. The top half is 5.12- compression with one decent rest and a tenuous throw to a horn at the top. From there the Hippo joins Hand Job and climbs ~10 more feet of 5.easy to the chains. The 6th and 8th bolts are a bit tricky to clip, but all the falls are all super clean and safe.

  • Note - due to the density of climbs, and like most of the sport routes in the lower gorge, it is possible to reach into the cracks on either side of this climb. There are 2 places where it is particularly tempting. The grade I have given and the route described are based on not using either crack at all, including compressing on the crack, or resting using the crack.


The proudest arete on the far side of the gorge, between Hand Job and Original Sin on Hand Job Wall.


8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains.


Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Super key Beta:… Mar 26, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Name: I named it "Hippo Wrestling" since as I was working the route, every time I would come down off it I would feel worked across my entire core, chest, shoulders, back, and arms, and one day I described it as feeling "so worked that it was like had just wrestled a hippo!" The name stuck. It is an extremely whole-body physical route, not like many of the other Smith 12s that work the tips of your fingers far more than the rest of your body. Mar 26, 2015
Blake Allen Green  
Well Matt, it looks like i have a reason to come back to the ol choss pile after all... Mar 28, 2015
This thing is soft as a baby's skull. Once you hit the crack it is CRUISER to the top. Kinda run out if you don't bring any gear. Also, I'm not sure how you are supposed to stretch all the way from the crack to clip most the bolts. Seems poorly bolted.

-Tacos Mar 30, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Blake! Get your ass back here and try this rig!

Winston - nice. You're killing it! I couldn't believe that I didn't think of that beta. You must have long long arms though to be able to reach back over and clip the bolts from the crack... ;-) Apr 1, 2015
Sounds like the new route name is hippo caressing. Only doable if you're capable of h7 (hippo-seven) hippo stroking. Keep one hand in the crack, and the other caressing the hippo snout. May 20, 2015
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
Harder than The Caning but a hair easier than Resuscitation, with no move as stopper as the crux on Resuscitation. To me this was more straightforward, more sustained, but I disagree that the upper portion is continuous 5.12 climbing – felt like the same 5.11 move repeatedly with little rest, except for the jug halfway through the compression section. However, I have a 6’6” wingspan and think it’s fair to say that these compression moves may be easier for taller folk. I found clips 2 & 5 very balancy Aug 13, 2015
Jess Groseth
Jess Groseth  
Such a great new line! For me, this route was much harder than Resuscitation, and seemed right on par with Body Karate. Regardless of the grade, a super classic line - great find, Matt!! Oct 12, 2015

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