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Routes in (3) Hand Job Wall
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Blitzen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blitzkrieg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cody's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Demander Cody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gagged and Bound T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hand Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hazy Shade of Summer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hippo Wrestling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Huckleberry Hound T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Independence Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Into White T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Killer Jism T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost and Found T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lube me up, Scotty T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McKenzie's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mines of Moria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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My Friend of Misery S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Original Sin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Strawberry Blond T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ugly As Sin T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Matt Farrell |
| Page Views: | 2,195 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Farrell on Mar 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: 2023 BRIDGE CLOSURE & Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The footbridge will be closed for replacement from August 14 - September 23, 2023
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
If arete slapping and compression climbing are your bag, and you can boulder v6, then you must come do this route. Unique, thoughtful, bouldery cruxes in the first half and killer compression endurance for the second half add up to one hell of a climb. An aesthetic, striking feature visible from the whole Lower Gorge, one of the hardest lines in the Lower Gorge, and a ridiculously awesome view (and photo op!) only add to the appeal.
Start on the right arete, and be careful clipping the 2nd (very balancey clip). The first half of the climb features boulder problems split by rests that range from just ok to excellent. For me they felt v3ish, v4ish, and v6ish, though I'm not that good of a boulderer, so I could be wrong. The top half is 5.12- compression with one decent rest and a tenuous throw to a horn at the top. From there the Hippo joins Hand Job and climbs ~10 more feet of 5.easy to the chains. The 6th and 8th bolts are a bit tricky to clip, but all the falls are all super clean and safe.
Start on the right arete, and be careful clipping the 2nd (very balancey clip). The first half of the climb features boulder problems split by rests that range from just ok to excellent. For me they felt v3ish, v4ish, and v6ish, though I'm not that good of a boulderer, so I could be wrong. The top half is 5.12- compression with one decent rest and a tenuous throw to a horn at the top. From there the Hippo joins Hand Job and climbs ~10 more feet of 5.easy to the chains. The 6th and 8th bolts are a bit tricky to clip, but all the falls are all super clean and safe.
- Note - due to the density of climbs, and like most of the sport routes in the lower gorge, it is possible to reach into the cracks on either side of this climb. There are 2 places where it is particularly tempting. The grade I have given and the route described are based on not using either crack at all, including compressing on the crack, or resting using the crack.
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