Type: Trad
FA: F.A. Wayne Arrington 1975
Page Views: 1,441 total · 15/month
Shared By: jrdezso on Apr 28, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A bouldery start puts you on a ledge staring up into an wavy chimney behind a basalt column. Wiggle your way up the chimney and crawl through the top opening to the anchors

Location

Look for the column with no bottom half

Protection

gear to 2.5 a little hard to protect

Photos

Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
PG13 at most, don't let the R scare you away! Protip: face out. Sep 21, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.8
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.8
Yep - definitely not R. Great route - very fun little mini-adventure. Face out. Wear a headlamp around your neck pointing down so you can see the color of your gear. Feb 1, 2015
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
 
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
 
I think PG13 might be more appropriate. if you fell getting established in the chimney you could potentially hit the ledge but you likely wouldn't die.

I thought you could take this route all the way up but it seemed to end at the anchors of Demander Cody. Did I miss something? Jun 21, 2015
stj
 
stj  
 
Bring a good selection of small cams; they were useful in the tunnel. I did appreciate having a headlamp for placing gear. Going to the top adds some to the adventure: blocky 5.6 R with some routefinding and rope drag. I belayed off a bigger juniper tree. The descent is apparently a chimney at the upstream end of the wall; I'd recommend checking it out before climbing up as we couldn't find it. We did find a reasonable 3rd class descent downstream past the Windfall Wall. Jul 6, 2015