Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,181 total · 9/month
Shared By: Joel Sprenger on Apr 29, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

This bolted line is 60ft to the right of cruel sister, a few routes left of Last Chance. It starts on the obvious pockets and thins out below the first bulge. Thin, rather powerful moves lead to you a small ledge just below the anchors.

Protection

Bolts

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Fun, safe route... not sure why it isn't more popular. The bottom half is easy, but the top half will keep you busy. Jun 9, 2011
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11b
Great route. Looks like it probably was dirty earlier, but has cleaned up really nicely. Very fun moves and the whole top half will keep you busy.

If you stay on or to the right of the bolt line the whole way, then this thing is 11b. Many people cheat left into the 10a crack, which is the next route over. Even if you stay right, you do end up using the crack for just a moment when it cuts right into Pet Cemetery. If you are leading and do cheat left into the crack, I think you would have to skip one of the bolts, but I'm not totally sure.

You can reach over to the next anchor to the right and setup a TR on Baby Fit (.11d mixed) from the anchor of Pet Cemetery. Baby Fit was just rebolted and cleaned up as of October 2014 and is a quality, fun route. Oct 11, 2014