Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kent Benesch, Alan Watts, 1980
Page Views: 393 total · 7/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Mar 14, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Given two stars in the Watts guide, this route is a bit of neglected classic. Mellow jamming up a shallow left facing corner leads to an engaging sequence turning a roof. Above that long lock-offs on positive locks take you to the chains.

Location

3-4 lines right of Quasar. Look for two roofs immediately left of Pet Cemetery. Rising Star climbs the left most corner under the roofs.

Protection

Gear to #2 C4.

Photos

- No Photos -
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
I had a terrible time on this route because there are two different pinch points that can eat the rope, and I was somehow unlucky enough to get the rope sucked into both of them. Completely debilitating rope drag.

The first pinch point is at the lip of the roof. I would recommend placing a nut there just to block the crack and prevent the rope from getting sucked in there, although I still think you could easily end up with bad rope drag there even with the nut. The second pinch point was a bit higher and I still don't really know how that one happened. This route would be fun and worth doing if you can avoid the rope drag... Oct 22, 2014
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
I as well experienced the horrible rope drag. Had I seen the comment before climbing the route I would have at least put more runners on gear below and be smarter about placements. Really good route though! Jun 11, 2017