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Routes in (3) Catwalk Cliff

Baby fit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood Clot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conversion Excursion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack-A-No-Go T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Crossroads S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cruel Sister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Delicatessen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dire Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erogenous Zone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fast Food Junky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Court Press S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Greasy Spoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ground Zero T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Chance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Michael Jordan Air Trad T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mid-Life Celebration S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Shift T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old And In The Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
On the Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patent Leather Pump T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearl, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pet Cemetary S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Phallic Symbol T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prometheus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quasar T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Religious Fervor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rising Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Satan's Awaiting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sitting Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kent Benesch, Alan Watts, 1980
Page Views: 364 total · 7/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Mar 14, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Given two stars in the Watts guide, this route is a bit of neglected classic. Mellow jamming up a shallow left facing corner leads to an engaging sequence turning a roof. Above that long lock-offs on positive locks take you to the chains.

Location

3-4 lines right of Quasar. Look for two roofs immediately left of Pet Cemetery. Rising Star climbs the left most corner under the roofs.

Protection

Gear to #2 C4.

Photos

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Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
I had a terrible time on this route because there are two different pinch points that can eat the rope, and I was somehow unlucky enough to get the rope sucked into both of them. Completely debilitating rope drag.

The first pinch point is at the lip of the roof. I would recommend placing a nut there just to block the crack and prevent the rope from getting sucked in there, although I still think you could easily end up with bad rope drag there even with the nut. The second pinch point was a bit higher and I still don't really know how that one happened. This route would be fun and worth doing if you can avoid the rope drag... Oct 22, 2014
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
I as well experienced the horrible rope drag. Had I seen the comment before climbing the route I would have at least put more runners on gear below and be smarter about placements. Really good route though! Jun 11, 2017

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