Type: Trad
FA: Watts 9/27/83
Page Views: 277 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Nov 3, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A rarely done face climb on trad gear with intricate moves and gear. Start on some tricky stemming moves typical of the gorge until you reach a final flaring jam and a diminishing crack. Place a few good pieces here and finesse a crux of side pulls and gastons reaching a horizontal break. Catch your breath and tackle the next crux reaching to good holds (reachy!). The difficulty backs off afterwards but the quality remains on the upper stem box reminiscent of Cornercopia.

This route is safe with the right gear but ground up ascents are rare. Feel free to buck the trend, or swing in from Quasar. You can also do the crux on Ground Zero and finish in the stembox of Night Shift.

Location

2 corners right of quasar

Protection

Pro from tiny to red camalot. Red/yellow alien offset and #2 ball nut are very helpful.

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