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Routes in (3) Catwalk Cliff

Baby fit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Clot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack-A-No-Go T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Crossroads S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cruel Sister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Delicatessen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dire Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erogenous Zone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Full Court Press S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Greasy Spoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ground Zero T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Chance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Michael Jordan Air Trad T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mid-Life Celebration S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Shift T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old And In The Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Patent Leather Pump T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearl, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pet Cemetary S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prometheus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quasar T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Religious Fervor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rising Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Satan's Awaiting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sitting Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts, 1982
Page Views: 151 total, 1/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jun 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Easy moves lead to a thin, powerful, and somewhat awkward crux about 15 feet off the ground. After the crux the climbing eases to 5.10. Traverse left on a horizontal about 5/6 of the way up, bypass the original anchors and finish on the upper portion of Quasar to chain anchors.

Though rated 10d in the Watts guide, I thought the crux was more difficult than any 11b I have climbed in the Lower. There is evidence that a hold has recently (after the FA?) broken off at the crux.

Location

Begin in the seam just right of Quasar.

Protection

Very small to medium stoppers and cams to a #1 camalot or equivalent provide excellent pro. I placed a crucial (and bomber) #4 DMM wallnut at the crux.

Photos

Bob Graham  
 
I have not been on many 11b's in the gorge yet but I found the crux move very hard for 11a. I still am not sure what was the best way to do the move as I was able to eek out a sequence 2 different ways, both felt hard for 11a. Great route though! May 3, 2010