Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
GPS: 44.36733, -121.13065
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 121 total · 6/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 3, 2024
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

Strike Force is a pitch that has fallen into neglect probably due to the unpleasant and ridiculously hard start, or the committing climbing above tiny and fiddly protection, or both. However it is a great bit of climbing that will appeal to trad technicians and, if you employ some shenanigans, you can climb a variation to the start that is more approachable and certainly ups the fun-factor.

Begin just left of Last Chance below a large, low roof system. The underside of the roof has a prominent, large, circular, white stain.

The original start heads up through the right side of the low roof by liebacking a flare. Once protected by a dubious pin (the route now sports three retrobolts), Watts fell here on TR and then fired it first go on lead. 5.12/+? Above this the climbing eases slightly but remains technically and psychologically engaging the entire way to the anchor. 

A variation start involves climbing up into the shared kneebar crux of Mid-Life Celebration & Silent Holocaust, but instead of pulling through and standing up over the kneebar, release the knee and undercling right on a thin, sharp flake to join the original line below the third bolt. Unfortunately, to do this safely one must pre-clip that third bolt, but arguably it is worth the effort. 5.12-.

Location Suggest change

Immediately left of Last Chance; look for three closely-spaced bolts with red hangers down low that protect a flare above a large roof.

Protection Suggest change

Cams from tiny to 0.75 Camalot.

Small and medium wires.

RP's (include the small ones).

Optional: Ballnuts. I placed the two smallest (blue and red).

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