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Routes in (3) Catwalk Cliff

Baby fit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Clot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack-A-No-Go T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Crossroads S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cruel Sister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Delicatessen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dire Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erogenous Zone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Full Court Press S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Greasy Spoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ground Zero T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Chance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Michael Jordan Air Trad T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mid-Life Celebration S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Shift T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old And In The Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Patent Leather Pump T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearl, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pet Cemetary S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prometheus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quasar T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Religious Fervor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rising Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Satan's Awaiting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sitting Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard, Jerry Radant -Oct 1983
Page Views: 2,913 total, 20/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A true gem amoung cracks. The pearl is hard for the grade but one of the finest cracks of the gorge seams. This seam has multiple hard section with a funky crux up high moving through a small roof. Above the crux the climbing eases but the climbing becomes runnout.

Location

The route is located to the left of a wide crack on the narrow catwalk.

Protection

Bring a full selection of gear to a #3 camalot with extras in the smaller sizes. I found an offset alien and red loweball comforting at the crux and above.

Photos

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ferrells  
 
Ditto on the small gear. I used doubles of small nuts (BD #7 to #4), and a few small cams. The only place to put a large cam (used a yellow link cam) is in the roof after the crux. Best single pitch of trad I've ever done at Smith, maybe anywhere. Jun 5, 2010
Vernon Stiefel
  5.11b
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.11b
This is the best 5.11 trad climb I have done in the Lower Gorge (On The Road is a close second). The crux move for me was a powerful lieback just below the roof. The best gear placements were HB offsets and small stoppers interspersed with small to medium cams to 1". May 16, 2006