Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard, Jerry Radant -Oct 1983
Page Views: 3,119 total · 20/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A true gem amoung cracks. The pearl is hard for the grade but one of the finest cracks of the gorge seams. This seam has multiple hard section with a funky crux up high moving through a small roof. Above the crux the climbing eases but the climbing becomes runnout.

Location

The route is located to the left of a wide crack on the narrow catwalk.

Protection

Bring a full selection of gear to a #3 camalot with extras in the smaller sizes. I found an offset alien and red loweball comforting at the crux and above.

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Vernon Stiefel
  5.11b
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.11b
This is the best 5.11 trad climb I have done in the Lower Gorge (On The Road is a close second). The crux move for me was a powerful lieback just below the roof. The best gear placements were HB offsets and small stoppers interspersed with small to medium cams to 1". May 16, 2006
ferrells  
 
Ditto on the small gear. I used doubles of small nuts (BD #7 to #4), and a few small cams. The only place to put a large cam (used a yellow link cam) is in the roof after the crux. Best single pitch of trad I've ever done at Smith, maybe anywhere. Jun 5, 2010