Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Alan Watts and Alan Lester, October 11, 1980
Page Views: 2,074 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

70 Opinions

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This route lies immediately left of Ground Zero and about 30 feet right of Cruel Sister. Climb juggy rock for about 15 feet to the first gear opportunity. From here follow the finger and hand crack, with the crux coming early on. Most folks stop at the first set of anchors.


This route lies immediately left of Ground Zero and about 30 feet right of Cruel Sister. The frothy rock that makes up the start of the climb makes it easy to find.


Gear to 2.5 inches. Small cams (up to Yellow TCU or Green Alien) are pretty useful.


Bend, OR
CritConrad   Bend, OR
To the first anchor feels pretty easy compared to other gorge 10a's. The extensions offered me a whopping one piece of gear and some pretty tricky face climbing above it. Oct 17, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Went straight up from the ground and I was pleased to have a purple C3, green alien, and blue mastercam. Sustained climbing above. Largest piece I place was green camalot. Personally, I think this is harder climbing than Cruel Sister. May 6, 2013
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
Agree with the comments above. The section between the lower and upper anchor involved some rock climbing above your last piece. Apr 7, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Bomber small stopper for the final moves to the upper anchors but isn't above your head the whole time. Helps to have done a bit of balancy face climbing for this finish. Aug 28, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10a/b PG13
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10a/b PG13
Update October 2014:

The first anchor was just replaced. The old thin SMC hangars had cut pretty deep grooves into the bolts and they were definitely sketchy. Now there are some really nice fat new bolts.

This is definitely one of the hardest 10a's in the gorge. Heading to the second anchor makes this really full value. Oct 11, 2014
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
It's thin. I, too, placed nothing bigger than a .75. Takes thin cams very well. I looked at the upper section for a minute and started up but didn't bring the nuts so I downclimbed back to the first anchor. Looks facey and runout. Even the bottom section seemed harder to me than Bloodclot and Cruel Sister. Short, low-angle, locker fingers, and good rests. 10a seems about right. Mar 13, 2015
eugene, or
iryna   eugene, or
beautiful crack... thin and delicate, not much for your feet, hands to fingers for me, requires a lot of balance and strength. I really enjoyed it. the part to the new anchors is kind of hard to protect, so we stopped at the older anchors. still, very interesting climb. Aug 17, 2015