Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Rich?
Page Views: 182 total · 9/month
Shared By: CritConrad on Jun 11, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Immediately right of Pet Cemetary and left of Full court press, Baby fit is a neglected classic. Equally as good as many 11s and 12s in the gorge. Begin with 2 bolts and thought provoking stems, smears, and face holds. above the 2nd bolt you have to commit to getting to a good flake feature and the start of the gear (mostly nuts). easy climbing follows 2 or 3 pieces of gear and situates you below 3 bolts and the back to back cruxes.

Figure out which holds you'd like to use and in what order and execute a stout sequence to a good hold. In the frothy rock another crux awaits before the easier climbing to the top. one last piece of gear can be placed above the last bolt.

This is an easy TR from Pet cemetery as well

Location

Left of Full Court Press and right of Pet Cemetery

Protection

bolts, a few stoppers, and I used a purple C3 in the flare up high

Photos

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CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12a
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12a
This thing felt hard at first, but it was able to be learned down. Once I sent I felt it was easier. Certainly not the 11c that is listed in the guidebook as the route now goes straight through its own independent crux instead of through Pet Cemetery. I'll say soft 12a in hopes that it will see more traffic Jun 11, 2017