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Routes in (3) Catwalk Cliff

Baby fit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Clot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack-A-No-Go T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Crossroads S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cruel Sister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Delicatessen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dire Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erogenous Zone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Full Court Press S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Greasy Spoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ground Zero T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Chance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Michael Jordan Air Trad T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mid-Life Celebration S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Shift T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old And In The Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Patent Leather Pump T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearl, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pet Cemetary S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prometheus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quasar T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Religious Fervor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rising Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Satan's Awaiting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sitting Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: (TR) Chris Jones & Bill Soule 1978, FFA (TR): Alan Watts 3/80, FL: Alan Watts 6/81
Page Views: 4,012 total · 28/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

This thin seam just right of Cruel Sister probably gets TR'ed more than any route in the gorge. Although the copious amounts of chalk on this route make it less asthetic it is still an elegent line that makes for a worthy endeavor.

The crux is more cryptic than difficult and finding the right pro can be dubious too.

Protection

A regular rack of cams and nuts should be complimented with mirco nuts, extras in the smallest cam sizes, and perhaps even a few offset nuts and cams

The route shares anchors with Cruel Sister.

Photos

AJ
 
AJ  
 
I'm surprised by the comments here and politely disagree.
I thought the route was safe and straightforward for its grade. No offsets or RPs needed. Blue and purple Metolius seemed to be key sizes. Mar 1, 2017
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11b PG13
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11b PG13
Tricky gear, especially at the start. At about 20' off the deck (just after the first big horizontal jug) you hit a flare that either takes an offset cam (maybe blue/yellow or yellow/orange mastercam), or you can just run it out and look at guaranteed groundfall if you blow it. The climbing is maybe mid-10 through this section, and you get good cams right after it and right before the crux.

The rest of the gear on the first 45' (all the hard climbing) is all blue-mastercam or smaller.

Unless you're very very solid at the grade, I would recommend at least trying to figure out the gear on lower before attempting to lead. Also, I still find the crux to be quite hard for the grade, even after doing it dozens of times.

Also to correct the description - it actually shares anchors with Blood Clot to the right, not Cruel Sister. Its not that awesome to TR from the Cruel Sister anchors.

And for a variation that is higher quality, try "Crack-A-No-Clot" - start on Crack-A-No-Go through the crux and once you hit the ledge halfway up, traverse a few feet to the right to finish up on the more aesthetic (and just as easy) Blood Clot. Jul 22, 2014
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
The gear doesn't seem too bad, but ya may want to go for the headpoint. Aug 30, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I'll never have the courage to lead, but an awesome TR. Cryptic moves that make the route seem harder for the grade until you figure them out. May 10, 2011