Type: Trad
FA: Todd Rentchler and Terri Schulz 1975
Page Views: 5,759 total · 36/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 10, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

135 Opinions

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Great climb with interesting moves, a few cruxes and bomber pro.
Jam thin hand to hands through a couple small roofs to a finger crack dihedral above.


Right of On The Road left of Gruff.


tcus and cams to 2"


pretty straightforward for the grade. takes good passive pro, too. Jun 19, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
This climb is fricken' sick! Awesome route. Topropers tend to find the 2nd bulge to be the crux, leaders tend to get stopped at the last bulge. Your mileage will vary. Bomber gear. Definitely bring some nuts as the previous person mentioned. May 20, 2007
Ian G.
Ian G.   PDX, OR
Thought this was harder than wildfire... Apr 30, 2009
Tod Bloxham
Tacoma, WA
Tod Bloxham   Tacoma, WA
Incredible climb! The finger locks at the top are inspiring. The 2nd roof is bit of a hand jam puzzle, but steller moves that work right into a pumpy finger lock finish.

Definitely a few no brainer nut placements as well as easy cam placements (and a few no hands rests if you want). Sep 8, 2009
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
This climb is the SH*T! Def my favorite climb in the gorge so far! Dec 9, 2010
Wally Fox
Bend, OR
Wally Fox   Bend, OR
How do you make a classic better? There's now an extension to bad finger that climbs through a seam and a couple roofs. It's Bad Ass! Aug 31, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Possibly the very best pitch of 5.10 at Smith. Certainly top 5. Oct 11, 2014

This is one of my fav's in the gorge, just a fun line to play on. Once you dial it, try leading on just nuts/hexes!! Old school rocks! Dec 13, 2014
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
I don't think 5.10 gets better than this. I can't think of any 5.10 that even comes close at smith. Crux for me was at the top. Jul 18, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
@Brian Martin 1 - you should go try the Tombstone if you're up for an adventure and want to try one of only a couple 5.10s at Smith that can rival Bad Finger.

Just make sure there's nobody below you at the base of the Monument before you rap into the Tombstone... Jul 28, 2015