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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Todd Rentchler and Terri Schulz 1975
Page Views: 4,754 total, 33/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 10, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Great climb with interesting moves, a few cruxes and bomber pro.
Jam thin hand to hands through a couple small roofs to a finger crack dihedral above.

Location

Right of On The Road left of Gruff.

Protection

tcus and cams to 2"

Photos

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
@Brian Martin 1 - you should go try the Tombstone if you're up for an adventure and want to try one of only a couple 5.10s at Smith that can rival Bad Finger.

Just make sure there's nobody below you at the base of the Monument before you rap into the Tombstone... Jul 28, 2015
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
 
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
 
I don't think 5.10 gets better than this. I can't think of any 5.10 that even comes close at smith. Crux for me was at the top. Jul 18, 2015
Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
This is one of my fav's in the gorge, just a fun line to play on. Once you dial it, try leading on just nuts/hexes!! Old school rocks! Dec 13, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
Possibly the very best pitch of 5.10 at Smith. Certainly top 5. Oct 11, 2014
How do you make a classic better? There's now an extension to bad finger that climbs through a seam and a couple roofs. It's Bad Ass! Aug 31, 2014
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
This climb is the SH*T! Def my favorite climb in the gorge so far! Dec 9, 2010
Tod Bloxham  
 
Incredible climb! The finger locks at the top are inspiring. The 2nd roof is bit of a hand jam puzzle, but steller moves that work right into a pumpy finger lock finish.

Definitely a few no brainer nut placements as well as easy cam placements (and a few no hands rests if you want). Sep 8, 2009
Ian G.
PDX, OR
Ian G.   PDX, OR
Thought this was harder than wildfire... Apr 30, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
This climb is fricken' sick! Awesome route. Topropers tend to find the 2nd bulge to be the crux, leaders tend to get stopped at the last bulge. Your mileage will vary. Bomber gear. Definitely bring some nuts as the previous person mentioned. May 20, 2007
bryans
 
bryans  
 
pretty straightforward for the grade. takes good passive pro, too. Jun 19, 2006