Type: Trad
FA: Chuck Buzzard 1984
Page Views: 2,201 total · 21/month
Shared By: Bob Graham on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

A fun an varied route that keeps you mentally engaged. A funky move at a horizontal down low and a thin crux at about mid height offer two good challenges to go with the sustained movement This is one of the classic well protected 11a's in the gorge.

Location

left of Lion of Judah, look for the chalked up horizontal fracture down low just above the pumice rock start.

Protection

small gear primarily, wires, off-set nuts, micro cams to 2"

Photos

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This route is super fun. Bring lots of stoppers. Also this route seems to be a funnel for silt after a hard rain. Feb 25, 2014
Peder Groseth replaced the old rusted anchor on this one. Stainless bolts and fixed steel biners! Get on it. Aug 6, 2015
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
This route really intimidated me for a long time since you really can't see much gear from below. After finally getting on it, there really is good gear and lots of it! Doubles from a green C3 to .75 camalot with a set of nuts offered me a lot more gear than I needed. Aug 30, 2015
ForrestKaye  
 
I feel that nuts protect best on this route for probably the first quarter (after the starting move with the horizontal crack) so best to feel comfortable placing them. You can continue to place them in many spots the rest of the way up as well. I like to bring doubles in the small/medium nut sizes so I have options. Jun 17, 2016
Calvin Landrus
Bend, OR
Calvin Landrus   Bend, OR
August 20, 2017 - a wire on the small cam broke at the opening crux horizontal. I'll need to comeback with better tools to get it out. Feel to remove if you can. Aug 21, 2017
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
Wish I had a set of med to small offset nuts for this one, I still found good cam placements (mostly 0.5 camalot or smaller) but it takes care to place. Sep 25, 2017