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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Kent Bensch
Page Views: 15,039 total · 101/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A classic 5.11 pump-a-thon. A stick-clip is often used to clip the first bolt to protect the insecure and overhanging first moves. The climbing is steep and consistent with a crux coming in the middle, but the pump will send many climbers for a ride near the top.

Vomit Launch is just to the left of the Cocaine Crack on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully, and starts under the small roof.

Protection

11 bolts and a bolted anchor

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.11b
C Miller   CA  
  5.11b
Did this route long ago (fall 1987) and remember it be high quality and pumpy for the grade. An excellent route and a very memorable name! Jan 25, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11b
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11b
I preface this by saying that I am a Vegas local, and that I was at Smith during the crazy heat streak this summer (over 100*), but this route, while CLASSIC... seemed harder than 5.11b to me, even by Smith standards. Aug 3, 2006
Corey McCarthy
Redmond, OR
  5.11b
Corey McCarthy   Redmond, OR
  5.11b
So good! There is a direct variant that should be tried on TR or after stick cliping. Great dyno from a right hand two finger pocket to the cliping jug just to the left of the first bolt. Does not add anything to the grade, just fun for those that like dynos. Apr 6, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.11
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.11
Personally, I found that the last few feet of climbing after you've become established in the crack were the crux of the route. Nice place for a crux, though! Excellent climb, certainly my favorite 11 in the park. Oct 28, 2011
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Great fun. Purely a physical fitness route without any single hard move standing out. Jul 24, 2013
Vomit Launch was recently re-bolted, there is now a new starting bolt maybe 6 feet up the route, which should keep people off the deck. Also a bolt was added in the middle portion of the route, making it less run out in the lower "slabby" portion. The new bolts are 5"x 1/2" stainless, thanks to the ASCA for the contribution. So, take 11 draws for the clips and 2 for the anchors! Enjoy. Nov 11, 2014
Tony Litke
La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.11d
Tony Litke   La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.11d
Long and pumpy with one of my favorite crimp cruxes. I fell at the crack finish and quickly learned my lesson to never do that again! Mar 4, 2015
Phildlm
 
Phildlm  
 
Very pumpy, and as usual, Smith ratings feel harder than other areas like Red Rock, Owens River Gorge, etc. There's no single particularly difficult move. The issue is dealing with it all after a hard pump at the top. There aren't any great rests past the fourth bolt. I've been told by climbers much better than me, that the finish is easier if you find a way to de-pump at the 2-hand jug just left of the second to last bolt. In any case, it's a classic. Mar 24, 2016
Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
Stiff, spicy, brilliant Sep 9, 2016

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