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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully
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[Redacted] S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crack Cocaine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quest to Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | bolted and prepped by kevin Gianino FA John Collins |
| Page Views: | 8,216 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on Mar 21, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character. You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top.
For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best.
For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best.
Location
On the "other" side of cocaine gully, perhaps 75 yards uphill from Vomit Launch. Look for an ugly black streaked wall and bolted crack; left of this wall, you'll find a well chalked, overhanging route: Crack Babies. Bloodshot is a just downhill (with a route in between), and starts on a solid 5.easyish ramp angling left.
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