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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,072 total, 39/month
Shared By: ferrells on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character. You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top.
For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best.

Location

On the "other" side of cocaine gully, perhaps 75 yards uphill from Vomit Launch. Look for an ugly black streaked wall and bolted crack; left of this wall, you'll find a well chalked, overhanging route: Crack Babies. Bloodshot is a just downhill (with a route in between), and starts on a solid 5.easyish ramp angling left.

Protection

roughly ten bolts
bmb
bmb  
couldn't pull of the deadpoint to the right after the bulge. Ended up staying left on the rail and moving through the bottom crux that way, its weird but it works. Maybe this is the static beta referenced in the description? Mar 10, 2017
dmPete
  5.11b
dmPete  
  5.11b
Wonderful route. As much fun as I've had on any climb at Smith. Oct 23, 2016
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
  5.11b
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
  5.11b
One of the very best 11s in the park! Cruxes felt comparable in difficulty to vomit launch, but with more rests on this route. Mar 29, 2016
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
Excellent route. There are two pairs of bolts spaced closed together (about 2 feet). If you clip both at the top you may want a longer sling on the bottom one to avoid some drag at the top crux. Oct 13, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
+1 that this route is super good! Get on it! Jun 13, 2012
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.11c
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.11c
Super fun. Well bolted when it needs to be, little spacey when the climbing eases to keep things interesting, plenty of rest stances to get your shit together between cruxes.

In my opinion the real crux of the route comes at the very top getting to and moving off of a great sidepull. The falls from here are a little intimidating since the route has kind of a little ramp below you, but I've taken some whips here and they were all a-ok. Oct 24, 2011