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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ken Benesch
Page Views: 2,825 total, 22/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This secluded route must be one of the best of the many neglected routes in Smith's "Main Area". Located high on the Morning Glory Wall, above such crowded lines as Magic Light and Overboard, few Smith regulars are even aware of the route's existence, and even fewer have set eyes on this line's beautiful stone, despite the fact that its visible from the River Trail.

The climb is actually approached via Cocaine Gully. Head toward the "Crack Babies" area on the west wall of the gulley. About 40 feet down-canyon from Crack Babies, locate a black, moss-covered slab. Leave the packs here and only bring the essentials up the slab. A short boulder problem (do-able in tennies) gains the slab. Wander up 20 feet, then follow an obvious trail another 30 feet south, then west around the corner to an extremely exposed ledge (use caution!). Traverse the ledge 5 feet west to a two bolt anchor below the "Rolling Stones Wall", a 30 foot wide, 60 foot tall wall of beautiful pink tuff. The bolts at this anchor are a bit sketchy, so you may want a few 1-3" pieces to backup the belay. 'Exile...' is the left route on the wall.

Begin gingerly above a narrow ledge, on relatively easy moves to the first bolt. The exposure may make this feel a bit harder than it actually is. Climb with increasing difficulty to the 2nd bolt and a decent clipping stance. A few rest jugs lead off to the right, but you will eventually need to traverse back left to the crux and the third bolt. Several more bolts lead up on increasingly easing terrain to the top of the wall, where the angle kicks back and the pink stone disappears. 10 more feet of slabbin lead to the 2-bolt anchor.

Location

Left route on the Rolling Stones wall, about 200 feet above the base of Magic Light. Approach via Cocaine Gully.

Protection

Bolts. Bring some long draws or slings to clip in the belayer, and perhaps a couple of 1-3" pieces to backup the belay bolts.

Photos

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Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
This route has seen a recent rebolt with glue-ins, along with many others in the Cocaine Gully. Two-bolt anchor on the ledge for the belayer. It felt pretty heads up getting to the second bolt with the ledge so close. Very sustained thin climbing, best left for a cold or cloudy day. The best thing I can say about this route is great position! Nov 3, 2016