Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,372 total · 13/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 9, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Start up a ramp just left of the bolt line. Blindly reach right around a bulge to clip the first bolt. Then make your way through several more feet of slab. As the wall turns vertical, fish hook a right hand mono pocket and clip the third draw. At this point the route turns slightly overhanging as you are forced to make balancy lieback moves. The occasional pocket provides areas to shake out before you encounter the final crux bulge.

At the crux bulge establish yourself on bad underclings and do your best to find something to grab amidst the chalkless lichen covered rock. There is a sinker two finger pocket somewhere up there. Good luck finding it. You will need to call upon your power, technical footwork and craftiness to avoid whipping here. Aim for a clipping jug several feet up and left of the anchors.

This route is worth doing and the rock is decent. The difficulty is comparable to Crack Babies, though much more technically demanding.

Location

This route is between bloodshot and crack babies on the east facing wall of the cocaine gully (Two routes left of the nasty looking bolted crack)

Protection

7 bolts plus anchors. A new bolt has made this route much safer than its previous state.

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CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12b
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12b
Great write-up. This thing feels really hard! Definitely felt harder than crack babies or liquid jade, or heinous cling. Nov 12, 2013
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
 
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
 
I've tried this route several times and I really tried to like this route. First this climb is really hard! After the 3rd or 4th bolt, there are only very strenuous rests. The crux comes after your very fatigued and it's very hard for 12a. Here's the thing: you can use the same exact hand holds and stem to the right and get a great rest instead of doing the absolute hardest moves of the climb. The anchors are placed low and to the right to disuade you from using the left wall. May 6, 2015
danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.12
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.12
One of my favorite routes at Smith...Punchy, strenuous, and hard! There is a decent, albeit strenuous rest before the crux guarding the chains. As has been mentioned, there is a crucial left-hand two-finger pocket necessary for exiting the crux/clipping the anchors...It's hard to see!

This route deserves more attention, and probably a bump in grades (or 2!). Jun 7, 2015
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
  5.12b
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
  5.12b
Had to solve this one like a puzzle. Rock quality is subpar.
Rewarding climb though. Apr 19, 2017