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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully
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[Redacted] S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crack Cocaine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quest to Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Frizzel |
| Page Views: | 2,710 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Mar 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
The opening 6 bolts of Bongo Fury is reminiscent of Churning in the Wake with long athletic moves between positive pockets. Move quickly through this section or you will get very pumped due to the overhanging nature of the climb. For the beginning section if you find yourself making a move off of anything that is worse than a perfect sinker two finger pocket you have probably biffed the sequence. At the sixth bolt position yourself to do the "frizmo," (whatever that is) or maybe just move dynamically to a big jug? The route is roughly 12c to that point.
Rest at the big jug before you launch in to a bewildering array of slab and bulge moves. The finish of this route climbs more like a route from the gorge rather than the tuff. The hardest moves travel through technical sidepulls between the 8th and 9th bolt. You'll be rewarded with a jug rest at the 9th bolt. The rest of the moves are not trivial so shake out before you try to decipher the next bulge. Several sequences can get you through this section, but anyway you move you'll end up using a 1.5 pad mono. The moves remain tricky all the way to the chains. The slab is very unique and anything but tedious. Take the time to work the moves on the slab and you will be rewarded.
This is a great route to do if you like good movement and solitude. The rock quality is amazingly good.
Rest at the big jug before you launch in to a bewildering array of slab and bulge moves. The finish of this route climbs more like a route from the gorge rather than the tuff. The hardest moves travel through technical sidepulls between the 8th and 9th bolt. You'll be rewarded with a jug rest at the 9th bolt. The rest of the moves are not trivial so shake out before you try to decipher the next bulge. Several sequences can get you through this section, but anyway you move you'll end up using a 1.5 pad mono. The moves remain tricky all the way to the chains. The slab is very unique and anything but tedious. Take the time to work the moves on the slab and you will be rewarded.
This is a great route to do if you like good movement and solitude. The rock quality is amazingly good.
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