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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Frizzel
Page Views: 1,126 total, 12/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 15, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The opening 6 bolts of Bongo Fury is reminiscent of Churning in the Wake with long athletic moves between positive pockets. Move quickly through this section or you will get very pumped due to the overhanging nature of the climb. For the beginning section if you find yourself making a move off of anything that is worse than a perfect sinker two finger pocket you have probably biffed the sequence. At the sixth bolt position yourself to do the "frizmo," (whatever that is) or maybe just move dynamically to a big jug? The route is roughly 12c to that point.

Rest at the big jug before you launch in to a bewildering array of slab and bulge moves. The finish of this route climbs more like a route from the gorge rather than the tuff. The hardest moves travel through technical sidepulls between the 8th and 9th bolt. You'll be rewarded with a jug rest at the 9th bolt. The rest of the moves are not trivial so shake out before you try to decipher the next bulge. Several sequences can get you through this section, but anyway you move you'll end up using a 1.5 pad mono. The moves remain tricky all the way to the chains. The slab is very unique and anything but tedious. Take the time to work the moves on the slab and you will be rewarded.

This is a great route to do if you like good movement and solitude. The rock quality is amazingly good.

Location

Located on the east facing side of the cocain gully, right of crack babies and the nasty looking crack. It is an overhanging wall with drilled pockets.

Protection

10 bolts plus anchors

Photos

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Fred Gomez  
 
Yeah. I knew that Frizzel bolted the route. I just don't know why a special move got named after him.

I have also heard that there has been some hold breakage. It seems like this is probably the reason you are forced to make a move off of a non-existent right hand pinch on the slab. Mar 16, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
"Frizmo" has something to do with Jeff Frizzel. I've heard that something broke on this a few years ago and it might be 13b now? Mar 15, 2010