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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tedd Thompson, Darius Azin 1987
Page Views: 3,867 total, 29/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Spectacular position and excellent climbing. This is the top portion of the seldom done route Slit Your Wrists (5.13b). Start on top of Skeleton Surfer. Stick clip the first bolt! Reach blindly out onto the face to find a great pocket, step across. Begin a series of funky arete moves for the first crux; considered somewhat beta-intensive. Highstep your way through the next crux and clip the anchors.

Location

The exposed arete on the right side of Cocaine Gully.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip is a must!

Photos

Alan Collins
Bend, OR
  5.12a
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
  5.12a
The blade now has 6 bolts and the anchors. Not a heady lead anymore Mar 5, 2016
This route was re-bolted by Ted Thompson last year. So it is good to go!!! Nov 11, 2014
Eric Schnepel
Portland
Eric Schnepel   Portland
I got on this yesterday and noticed that the first bolt off the ledge is fairly suspect. It spins in its hole and is quite wobbley. As it is the only bolt keeping climbers out of the chasm below, I would recommend stick clipping the second as well. Also, the last bolt on the route is missing its hanger. Super fun route, though. May 29, 2012