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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alan Watts?
Page Views: 6,139 total, 48/month
Shared By: adam brink on Jun 27, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

A Smith classic with bomber, vertical stone and excellent climbing. After a mid height technical crux this route turns to sweet reaches between incut crimps. The good climbing seems to go on forever!

Location

Freebase starts just to the left of Vomit Lunch and up on a higher level. Be careful at the belay ledge as it is easy to send rocks (or a person) down on to climbers below. Stick clipping the first bolt is a very good idea (and I think stickclipping is usually kind of wimpy:).

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.12a
Franck Vee  
  5.12a
Great route. That's a very limit grade for me, not even sure I can redpoint that soon, but I really enjoyed it.

Regarding the setup: bolts are spaced but the falls are clean, even if as mentioned it's hard to give a soft catch with 1st bolt clip & belayer anchored (and belayer should be anchored). The only *potentially* sketchy & spaced bolt would be the 3rd... BUT the difficult moves are just above the 2nd, once you are close to/at the 3rd you have a bomber jug to clip with so there's not reason, if you made it after the bouldery start, to fall with dangerous amount of slack in hands. The bolts above are indeed spaced out, Smith rocks style, but still safely so given the clean vertical & lots of air below you.

For the climb itself: great technical positioning, the hard bits have no good feet to speak of but plenty of tiny spots to smear/kind of edge a foot on. This is a climb where position is much more important than the quality of the hold, both for hands and feet. You find yourself hanging seemingly on nothing yet hanging if you position yourself well. The bouldery start, with the lip, great undercling and farrr reach out to an okay sidepull makes for a fun start, if very different in style from the rest. Jul 6, 2017
Bolts appear to have been re-glued. Mar 5, 2017
DanLing  
caveat emptor - the top two glue in bolts move about 20-45 degrees in their hole. Aug 22, 2016
CritConrad
Bend, OR
CritConrad   Bend, OR
While belaying a friend on this I found that with having the 1st bolt clipped, it was very hard to give a soft catch. As max was saying, any fall results in a decent sized whipper and the first bolt is weirdly positioned only a few feet above you from where you belay. We found softer catches were possible by stick clipping the second bolt. If you think that is lame, then expect somewhat of a hard catch, or just send the route! Mar 26, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
This is definitely a killer line with fun moves on perfect rock, but I did find the movement to be somewhat committing. The bolt line is a wee bit spaced and consistently off to the left side of the holds. I took a 15 footer off the crux, so don't expect to be pulling the hard moves with a bolt at your chest... Jun 13, 2012