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Vomit Launch

5.11b, Sport,  Avg: 3.8 from 357 votes
FA: Kent Benesch 1987
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (f) Cocaine Gully
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Description

A classic 5.11 pump-a-thon. A stick-clip is often used to clip the first bolt to protect the insecure and overhanging first moves. The climbing is steep and consistent with a crux coming in the middle, but the pump will send many climbers for a ride near the top.

Vomit Launch is just to the left of the Cocaine Crack on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully, and starts under the small roof.

Protection

11 bolts and a bolted anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Connor on Vomit
[Hide Photo] Connor on Vomit
A few moves into the pumpfest that is Vomit Launch
[Hide Photo] A few moves into the pumpfest that is Vomit Launch
Paul Price heading up Vomit Launch - April 2021
[Hide Photo] Paul Price heading up Vomit Launch - April 2021
Uplift your friends.
[Hide Photo] Uplift your friends.
Young on a redpoint attempt
[Hide Photo] Young on a redpoint attempt
Chalking up and shaking out on Vomit Launch
[Hide Photo] Chalking up and shaking out on Vomit Launch
dancing
[Hide Photo] dancing
Ben on the pumpy upper section
[Hide Photo] Ben on the pumpy upper section
Gorgeous lighting!
[Hide Photo] Gorgeous lighting!
Young stoke will take you anywhere
[Hide Photo] Young stoke will take you anywhere
awesome moves on superb rock
[Hide Photo] awesome moves on superb rock
Fantastic rout! Gets pumpy near the top.
[Hide Photo] Fantastic rout! Gets pumpy near the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Did this route long ago (1987) and remember it be high quality and pumpy for the grade. An excellent route and a very memorable name! Jan 25, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I preface this by saying that I am a Vegas local, and that I was at Smith during the crazy heat streak this summer (over 100*), but this route, while CLASSIC... seemed harder than 5.11b to me, even by Smith standards. Aug 3, 2006
Corey McCarthy
Redmond, OR
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] So good! There is a direct variant that should be tried on TR or after stick cliping. Great dyno from a right hand two finger pocket to the cliping jug just to the left of the first bolt. Does not add anything to the grade, just fun for those that like dynos. Apr 6, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Personally, I found that the last few feet of climbing after you've become established in the crack were the crux of the route. Nice place for a crux, though! Excellent climb, certainly my favorite 11 in the park. Oct 28, 2011
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
[Hide Comment] Great fun. Purely a physical fitness route without any single hard move standing out. Jul 24, 2013
[Hide Comment] Vomit Launch was recently re-bolted, there is now a new starting bolt maybe 6 feet up the route, which should keep people off the deck. Also a bolt was added in the middle portion of the route, making it less run out in the lower "slabby" portion. The new bolts are 5"x 1/2" stainless, thanks to the ASCA for the contribution. So, take 11 draws for the clips and 2 for the anchors! Enjoy. Nov 11, 2014
Tony Litke
La Crosse, WI
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Long and pumpy with one of my favorite crimp cruxes. I fell at the crack finish and quickly learned my lesson to never do that again! Mar 4, 2015
Phildlm
 
[Hide Comment] Very pumpy, and as usual, Smith ratings feel harder than other areas like Red Rock, Owens River Gorge, etc. There's no single particularly difficult move. The issue is dealing with it all after a hard pump at the top. There aren't any great rests past the fourth bolt. I've been told by climbers much better than me, that the finish is easier if you find a way to de-pump at the 2-hand jug just left of the second to last bolt. In any case, it's a classic. Mar 24, 2016
Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Stiff, spicy, brilliant Sep 9, 2016
Hayleywray
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Just watch a guy pull the second bolt of this route out of the wall. A stick clip won’t reach the third bolt. Be careful! May 12, 2018
Seanald
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Can confirm the missing bolt. Hayleywray: was the person who pulled it okay? May 13, 2018
Aaron Hartig
Bend, OR
5.11b
[Hide Comment]
  • *UPDATE/WARNING** the original first bolt is not there. it had an "X" next to the bolt and was able to pull the bolt out with two fingers. I tried to find a way to contact Kent, please be careful. You can stick clip the 2nd bolt from the new 1st bolt.
May 17, 2018
[Hide Comment] The second bolt is still missing but a 2 inch cam fits perfectly on the left side of the huge clipping jug. This protects at the same height as the missing bolt. I am sure you can also stick clip the bolt above but watched some folks having trouble doing that. Sep 23, 2018
[Hide Comment] The missing bolt has been replaced with 7" long 5/8ths" Twisted Leg glue in. Oct 17, 2018
Jan Tarculas
San Diego, Ca
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] probably one of the most fun 5.11b I have ever hopped on. A must do if you can climb this grade. Go for the onsight Sep 23, 2019
[Hide Comment] There is a picture of this in Dale Goddard's "Performance Rock Climbing", and its referred to as 10+. Anyone know if this was actually the original given grade? Jun 19, 2020
Bapgar 1
Out of the Loop
 
[Hide Comment] I can't believe that I didn't comment on this route. I used to live in Portland and climbed quite a bit @ Smith. IMO this is an absolute must do, one of the best lines in the park. Dec 18, 2021