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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tom Heins, Pete Keane 3/91
Page Views: 3,440 total · 24/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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118 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun route with cool exposure and consistently fun climbing. It starts with a rather steep boulder problem (a stick clip makes it seem much less difficult) and then goes straight up a slightly slabby face with lots of nubbins. If you like Smith Rock nubbin climbing, you will love this route.

This is the farthest right route on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully.

Protection

9 bolts and a bolted anchor. A stick clip is handy for protecting the bouldery bottom section before gaining the main face.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
The starting moves past the first bolt felt considerably harder than 10b.... at least to me.

Great nubbin fondling though! Sep 15, 2010
First bolt isn't all that hard, although I agree the fall would be v. ugly. The second bolt, though...it sure seemed desperate to me! Watts says left hand in the crack, but I was on the face. One bomber hold at the bolt, and you're golden. Dec 1, 2008
grizz Burton  
 
Very fun climb. I didn't encounter a single suspect nubbin. Everything felt very solid. The initial moves to the first bolt are challenging with a seriously bad fall potential but the clipping holds are good. May 12, 2008
Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR
Joel Sprenger   Terrebonne, OR
Good climb. Hard reachy move at the start leads to a fun slab and an even better upper section leading to the anchors. Nov 28, 2007