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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Tom Egan, December 1990
Page Views: 224 total · 2/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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17 Opinions

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Description

This is a short one-move wonder route with a sharp, crimp sequence for the "wonder" part. Mantle onto a ledge and then tackle the tweaky crux above the second bolt. After this, it's easy to the anchors. Rated 11a in the 1992 Watt's guide, the single hard sequence perhaps lost a hold and increased the grade. Anyone who I have talked with who has also climbed it (4 other climbers) has thought it harder than 11a and also an "unpleasant" route to avoid.

Location

Upper right (North) side of Cocaine Gully, just before the last two (newer-not in the Watt's guide) routes, Armageddon and Deep Impact.

Protection

Bolts(aprox 4). Bolt anchors.

Photos

David Tvedt  
 
I would agree that the rock quality is fine on this route. Myself and 3 other climbers have had "disgust" responses to climbing it. Different climbers like different things and I don't think it really deserves a true "bomb" but to me it doesn't deserve an Average, OK, either. For me it was a combination of it being a short route with forgettable moves except for the memorably negative crux sequence which is WAY harder than anything else on the route. If I were to rate it based on the Watt's 1992 guide criteria, I'd give it one star (below average) but not No Stars, Terrible, and a bomb. This route is no where near the bottom dregs of routes that could be considered the true bombs. The ratings on Mountain Project don't allow me to give it a below average rating. Apr 17, 2006
Vernon Stiefel
  5.11a/b
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.11a/b
I don't understand why this received a bomb for quality. Even though only one distinct crux exists, I thought the climbing and rock quality was good. Apr 17, 2006

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