Description

The Cocaine Gully sits parallel to the Aggro gully to its right. The short steep walk is well worth it to get to the pumpfests found within.

Getting There

The Cocaine Gully lies between the West Ship and the Morning Glory Wall. Follow a path up underneath the right side of the gigantic boulder at its mouth of the gully, then take the trails up as high as you need them.

20 Total Climbs

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Location: (f) Cocaine Gully Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cocaine Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Happy Meal
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 143
Chicken McNuggets
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
Deep Impact
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 36
Powder Up the Nose
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Armageddon
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Cocaine Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 184
Vomit Launch
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Skeleton Surfer
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Shake 'n Flake
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 65
Bloodshot
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Blade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Freebase
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 12
Quest to Fire
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 41
Crack Babies
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Slit Your Wrists
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Happy Meal
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chicken McNuggets
 143
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Deep Impact
 36
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Powder Up the Nose
 36
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Armageddon
 47
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cocaine Crack
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Vomit Launch
 184
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Skeleton Surfer
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shake 'n Flake
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bloodshot
 65
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Blade
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Freebase
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Quest to Fire
 12
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Crack Babies
 41
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Slit Your Wrists
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cocaine Gully »

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hotlum
Bend, Oregon
hotlum   Bend, Oregon
Went up Cocaine this week (December 2011). The normal approach is in bad shape. There is warning tape saying the approach is closed, but people still go up. The stuff is very unconsolidated and not safe. The way up/down on lookers left is solid but 4th-ish, exposed, but solid. If you are not in proper footwear, like keens or flip-flops put your climbing shoes on!
I believe the conditions will change as more water flushes out rock. Might get better, might get worse. Dec 11, 2011
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
The traditional approach (via the climber's right side of the gully) has been closed due to the high frequency of rockfall. The base of Vomit Launch is right at the top of it and anything knocked down by parties up there scours the tunnel and anyone in it.

There is a reasonable alternative on the extreme climber's left side of the gully which involves some maybe-exposed 4th classing, (comparable to Asterisk Pass) but has far less loose rock. Dec 16, 2011
There is now a rappel anchor to facilitate an easy and safe descent from Cocaine Gully. The anchor is located at the left hand side (as you look towards the river)of the gully near the base of The Blade. 2 stainless bolts with long chains. Spread the word! Apr 18, 2015