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(f) Cocaine Gully

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The Cocaine Gully sits parallel to the Aggro gully to its right. The short steep walk is well worth it to get to the pumpfests found within.

Getting There

The Cocaine Gully lies between the West Ship and the Morning Glory Wall. Follow a path up underneath the right side of the gigantic boulder at its mouth of the gully, then take the trails up as high as you need them.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Hobbit's Pockets
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Hippos on Ice
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Exile On Main Street
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Thieves
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 157
Bloodshot
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Quest to Fire
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 85
[Redacted]
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Crack Cocaine
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 2
Bongo Fury
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
Armageddon
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 70
Deep Impact
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
Bound in Bogata
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Shake 'n Flake
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 74
Powder Up the Nose
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 76
Freebase
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 359
Vomit Launch
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Cocaine Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 257
Chicken McNuggets
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 49
Happy Meal
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Skeleton Surfer
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
The Blade
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hobbit's Pockets
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hippos on Ice
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Exile On Main Street
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Thieves
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bloodshot
 157
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Quest to Fire
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
[Redacted]
 85
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Crack Cocaine
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Bongo Fury
 2
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Armageddon
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Deep Impact
 70
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bound in Bogata
 24
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Shake 'n Flake
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Powder Up the Nose
 74
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Freebase
 76
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vomit Launch
 359
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cocaine Crack
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Chicken McNuggets
 257
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Happy Meal
 49
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Skeleton Surfer
 18
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Blade
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Connor on Vomit
[Hide Photo] Connor on Vomit

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] The traditional approach (via the climber's right side of the gully) has been closed due to the high frequency of rockfall. The base of Vomit Launch is right at the top of it and anything knocked down by parties up there scours the tunnel and anyone in it.

There is a reasonable alternative on the extreme climber's left side of the gully which involves some maybe-exposed 4th classing, (comparable to Asterisk Pass) but has far less loose rock. Dec 16, 2011
[Hide Comment] There is now a rappel anchor to facilitate an easy and safe descent from Cocaine Gully. The anchor is located at the left hand side (as you look towards the river)of the gully near the base of The Blade. 2 stainless bolts with long chains. Spread the word! Apr 18, 2015