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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport
FA: James Fredericks, Ted Ottto, Summer 1989.
Page Views: 834 total · 17/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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If you want to climb this at the grade then you'll simply haul yourself up to the first bolt and start fro there. If you want to turn it into a 12a then start from the base. The 12a move is easier if you have long arms. Super reachy. The route is so juggy, you'll forget that your even at smith. This route recieves little attention but I can't seem to figure out why. Great moves with a cool foot cutting crux up top. This and the Blade make a great combo. If joining the two routes, I reccommend Top roping Skeleton surfer and then leading The Blade to avoid rope drag.


This route is on the big block plugging cocain gully just before you enter the closed right entrance.


5 bolts, chains. a little old and spinners but they still have some life in them.


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4 bolts...first bolt is gone, and only the screw remains visible...stick clipping second bolt isn't too hard. I was very happy with the choice of stick clipping, as the moves off the deck might be the most difficult on the route. Mar 31, 2015
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
thanks for the heads up. I'll replace it once i'm back in Oregon unless someone beats me to it "hint hint":) Apr 1, 2015
Really cool route, minus the start that i can't do...yet. Also the jug below the chains has a fair bit of wiggle to it. Hopefully it stays put. Mar 14, 2017
Charlie Egan  
The wiggling jug fell off on 10/1/17. The route is a few ticks harder now. Oct 2, 2017

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