Type: Sport
FA: James Fredericks, Ted Ottto, Summer 1989.
Page Views: 873 total · 17/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

If you want to climb this at the grade then you'll simply haul yourself up to the first bolt and start fro there. If you want to turn it into a 12a then start from the base. The 12a move is easier if you have long arms. Super reachy. The route is so juggy, you'll forget that your even at smith. This route recieves little attention but I can't seem to figure out why. Great moves with a cool foot cutting crux up top. This and the Blade make a great combo. If joining the two routes, I reccommend Top roping Skeleton surfer and then leading The Blade to avoid rope drag.

Location

This route is on the big block plugging cocain gully just before you enter the closed right entrance.

Protection

5 bolts, chains. a little old and spinners but they still have some life in them.

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dmPete
  5.11b/c
dmPete  
  5.11b/c
4 bolts...first bolt is gone, and only the screw remains visible...stick clipping second bolt isn't too hard. I was very happy with the choice of stick clipping, as the moves off the deck might be the most difficult on the route. Mar 31, 2015
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
  5.11b
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
  5.11b
thanks for the heads up. I'll replace it once i'm back in Oregon unless someone beats me to it "hint hint":) Apr 1, 2015
Capple
 
Capple  
 
Really cool route, minus the start that i can't do...yet. Also the jug below the chains has a fair bit of wiggle to it. Hopefully it stays put. Mar 14, 2017
Charlie Egan  
 
The wiggling jug fell off on 10/1/17. The route is a few ticks harder now. Oct 2, 2017