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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully
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[Redacted] S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crack Cocaine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quest to Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,074 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Mac on Aug 8, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
An awkward layback (?) move above a big hueco leads to a jug, and then to the most painful, thin, flaring hand crack you've ever climbed. Maybe once was climbed on gear, but now it's fully bolted. The climbing eases off substantially after the 5.11 crux. The anchor is awkward to clip involving one last annoyingly difficult move to clip the carabiner. It's possible to hang a draw on the steely from beneath, although if you're a purist, you may not... Then again, if you're a purist you probably didn't clip the bolts either :)
This is one difficult climb.
If anyone has any more information on this route, please share!
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