Mountain Project Logo

Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Description

French’s Dome is a lone andesite crag located on the flanks of Mt. Hood near the town of Zig Zag, Oregon. Routes range in height from 80ft. to 160ft., and most are well-bolted. The setting is quiet and tranquil, and invokes a feeling of solitude in the old-growth forest. Spectacular views of Mt. Hood abound, and crowds are few.

The climbing is sporty, crimpy, and pumpy. Most of the routes feature chains and steel biners on the anchors, however, a couple don't have biners, so don't always plan on them being there.

Due to heavy snowfall this area is strictly a Summer and early Fall crag. The best hours are in the afternoon when the majority of the climbs are in the shade.

Getting There

To get to French’s Dome take Highway 26 from Portland towards Mt. Hood. In the town of Zig Zag take a left onto Lolo Pass Rd and continue for approximately 6 miles. The dome is not clearly visible from the road, but there is an obvious dirt pullout for parking on the right with a sign. Take the small trail downhill from the parking area to the dome; the majority of the climbs are on the left side of the dome as you're walking down the hill.
a NW Forest Pass is required to park here. You can get one from the ZigZag Ranger station if you don't have one.

29 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: French's Dome Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at French's Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 78
Giant's Staircase
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Do it Again
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 85
Straw Man
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Alpha Centauri
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Tin Tangle
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Oz
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 95
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak)
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 46
China Man
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 52
Crankenstein
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Jackie Chan
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 16
Road Face
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 25
Pump-O-Rama
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
The Dark Side (AKA The Siege)
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Philanthropy
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Psoriasis
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Giant's Staircase
 78
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Do it Again
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Straw Man
 85
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Alpha Centauri
 80
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tin Tangle
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Oz
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Str…
 95
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
China Man
 46
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crankenstein
 52
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jackie Chan
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Road Face
 16
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Pump-O-Rama
 25
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Dark Side (AKA The Siege)
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Philanthropy
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Psoriasis
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in French's Dome »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Access to French's Dome is not free and unregulated. The trailhead is a Northwest Forest Pass (NWFP)site. Users may purchase a $5 daily pass or a $30 annual pass. 80% of the Northwest Forest Pass revenues go directly back to the ground - maintaining trails and sites like this. NWFP funds were used in 2005 on French's Dome to get engineered drawings and a contract package developed to construct climbing platforms. These climbing platforms will replace the eroded hillsides and user created stop gap measures that are currently on site. The total cost of this project (scheduled to start in Spring of 2006)is over $50,000 so please support the NWFP program as it paid for this work. Your fees will also pay for a porta-potty at the site to reduce the white flowers and worse in the woods around the crag. Volunteers that work on trails on the Mt. Hood Forest receive annual Northwest Forest Passes as recognition awards for 2 days of work. See Forest website for more info. Frenches Dome can be busy when local mountain snow-board and ski camp groups are using it on summer afternoons. Jan 30, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
French's just had a ton of work done on the retaining walls and trails. They've really been beefed up, and the whole effort looks awesome. Thanks to anyone out there who put in some hard hours out there! Jul 10, 2007
jeb013
Portland
jeb013   Portland
The guide book shows 23 routes and I believe a few more have gone in since it was published. Aug 19, 2013
marmots  
Has anyone been up to the Dome this year? Is Lolo Pass road open to the parking lot yet? Thanks! May 30, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
French's Dome is completely accessible as of now. May 30, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This crag is super fun, but the hardware seems pretty janky. I only did a handful 5.11 and 12-, but the theme of the day was rusty bolts that were varying degrees of uninspiring. Maybe I just don't spend enough time climbing in wet climates, but it seems like we can do better... Jun 30, 2017
dmPete  
Max, I agree. The few routes I climbed had some pretty rusty hardware on them. Jul 3, 2017

More About French's Dome

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (1)

All Photos Within French's Dome (38)

Most Popular · Newest · Random