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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 620 total · 18/month
Shared By: James Barnett 2 on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Edit]

Climb past the first two bolts of China Man then traverse left to finish on Dark Side, avoiding the cruxes of both routes. Somewhat strenuous climbing at the bottom of China Man quickly turns to 5.10 after the traverse. Long draws on bolts 3 and 4 will help to reduce rope drag. This is a fun, less pumpy alternative to China Man and maybe a good intro to the steeper climbing at French's for the 5.11 climber.

Given the number of variation routes at French's, I'd be surprised if someone hasn't already done this. If you have any credible FA info please let me know.

Location [Edit]

Start as for China Man. After 2 bolts climb directly left, clipping two more bolts before climbing straight up to finish on Dark Side. Anchor with chains and biners.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts

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danieljordan
Portland, OR
danieljordan   Portland, OR
It was us James, we got the FA. Because we were that bored. Jan 20, 2017

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