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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,510 total · 31/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Sep 16, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

While this route can be done in two, or even three pitches, it is best done in one clean run to the top. Climb up GiantÂ’s Direct, and rather than going to the belay anchor, follow the bolts up into a dish. Pull through the top of the dish on a couple thin holds, and then continue up to a small roof. Climb through the small roof on big holds and finish to the top. Rap off descent anchors.

Location

Straight up from Giant's Direct.

Protection

14 bolts

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
 
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
 
7 bolts were replaced with 1/2" SS bolts on 10/18/14. 5 extra bolts were removed.
Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware. Oct 19, 2014
This was a pretty fun way to top out--as a long, single pitch. Aug 5, 2018
Dylan Shuler
  5.9
Dylan Shuler  
  5.9
You can make this route more fun by starting on the unnamed route to the left of Giant's direct with the note warning of lose rock (all the holds are solid, there are little flakes on some of the ledges), its probably a 5.8 Sep 10, 2018

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