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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,594 total · 18/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jul 24, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Edit]

One of the best routes at the crag. Steep, sustained, and pumpy as hell. It's a nice step up in difficulty from Crankenstein due to some smaller holds and fewer rests.

Location [Edit]

Just to the right of Crankenstein. Belay from the 4th terrace from the bottom.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Anchors have been replaced with 1/2" bolts and Rap Rings as of 10/19/14. Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware. Oct 19, 2014
Tony Litke
La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.12b
Tony Litke   La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.12b
It's all in the name. Just don't give up until you send! Mar 4, 2015
Brunt Tornton
NH-->OR
  5.12a
Brunt Tornton   NH-->OR
  5.12a
would be a great climb to break into 5.12. no stopper moves and well protected. no harder IMO than crankenstein "11c" Jun 21, 2015
ChiHarris
Portland, OR
  5.12b
ChiHarris   Portland, OR
  5.12b
Rap Rings replaced with chains and permanent carabiners 7/9/15 thanks to Micah Klesick. Jul 9, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
This route was rebolted with ASCA SS glue in bolts in July 2017. Aug 8, 2017
dmPete
  5.12a
dmPete  
  5.12a
Hard to imagine this route is 12a/b with its neighbor to the left at only 11c (before the big rest jug broke off). Crankenstein and Pump-O-Rama feel to me very similar in difficulty and style...and I wouldn't argue too hard with the climber who said both were 11d.

Sweet line though, whatever the grade! Sep 3, 2017
Ryan Orr
Portland, OR
Ryan Orr   Portland, OR
Sometime between the last two Saturdays, the left-hand crimp at the fourth bolt got super loose. Pull gently and it may last a little while longer. I don't think it's necessary to move past that section, but it will be a little harder once it falls out. May 14, 2018

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