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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
China Syndrome S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Price, Tim Olson - 1990
Page Views: 2,031 total · 40/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Sep 23, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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A great beginners lead, as there are plenty of bolts and fun climbing. Start at the base of Giant's Staircase, and head directly up. The line ascends up the left side of a prominent blocky rib, just left of Tin Tangle (a slightly run-out 5.7 sport climb). Going up Do It Again and then heading straight up the finish to Giant's Staircase is the most direct way up to the top of the Dome. Someone has placed a bolt above the anchor to protect the moves into the finish. 5 extra bolts if going all the way to the top.


Directly above the start to Giant's Staircase.


8 bolts and chain anchors. Shares anchors with Tin Tangle. Steel biners on the anchors. As always, if doing multiple laps on a route, please use your own draws, then lower off the fixed biners when done.


Dan .H
Dan .H  
Clipping the bolt at the small roof without a single runner creates quite a bit of rope drag. I wish I had brought a runner up! Oct 25, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Excellent point. I've always skipped that bolt, and recommend others do as well. Completely not needed, even if the route is at your limit. Oct 25, 2015
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
If referencing Portland Rock Climbs 4th ed. by Tim Olson along with the route description giving on Mountain Project, you will be confused. Hopefully, this comment will help in undoing the confusing. First, there are three possible finished to this climb from left to right they are:

One: Short 50’ route which is barely 5.6 if that; it ends at bolts almost all the way up the first pitch of Giant Staircase. Evidence: The length of the route matches Olson, and there is no other route which comes close to this set of anchors, though the first pitch of Giant Staircase travels just below, and the second pitch of Giant Staircase travels just above this set of anchors.

Two: approximately 110’ long, 5.7. Just before the bolt anchor for variation One head straight up toward a U-notch and join the Giant Staircase route where the second pitch turns up. Belay at the anchors atop of Giant Staircase second pitch. Note this anchor lays back making is not a good anchor to top rope from the ground, plan to belay your partner up to you and finish the Giant Staircase’s third pitch. Evidence: It follows the description laid out in Mountain Project, and it the most natural and obvious route to follow.

Three: (if it exists) would be about 70+’ long and 5.7-5.9. Head up the Giant Staircase first pitch as with the other two variations. Then someplace above the moss cover rock veer right and head for the Tin Tangle anchors. Note this would be the third route using the Tin Tangle anchors, which could make using this set of anchors problematic. Evidence: The topo in Olson indicates the route ends at this set of anchors and it would be closer to the 5.9 that Olson gives for the climb. Also, in Mountain Project under Protection, it states “Shares anchors with Tin Tangle.”

Note Weekend Rock: Oregon by Horton will confuse you even more. Jul 7, 2018
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Just to clarify Richard's comment (with my take on it anyway). In researching /writing the Rakkup Mt Hood Guidebook for this, we discovered that the topo in NW Rock Olsen guide (or the Portland Rock Climbs guide) is incorrect on the location of this and several other routes along the base of the cliff. (and the Weekend Rock book is even worse).
Do It Again goes straight up the spine to the anchors in the "U" shaped groove. If you look at the Rakkup Guide, there is a photo with a topo drawn referencing the exact path of the route. I've just now uploaded a photo that was used in the Rakkup guide, indicating the path Do It Again takes. Hopefully this clears up any confusion created by the two paper print guides. You can see some of the Rakkup topo's for reference at…. Jul 8, 2018

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