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Routes in French's Dome
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Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dark Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Name is in the process of being changed... (formerly known as China Man) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft |
| FA: | Bill Price, Tim Olson - 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,918 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Micah Klesick on Sep 23, 2014 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Your Star Rating:
Description
A great beginners lead, as there are plenty of bolts and fun climbing. Start at the base of Giant's Staircase, and head directly up. The line ascends up the left side of a prominent blocky rib, just left of Tin Tangle (a slightly run-out 5.7 sport climb). Going up Do It Again and then heading straight up the finish to Giant's Staircase is the most direct way up to the top of the Dome. Someone has placed a bolt above the anchor to protect the moves into the finish. 5 extra bolts if going all the way to the top.
Kalamazoo, MI
Portland OR
One: Short 50’ route which is barely 5.6 if that; it ends at bolts almost all the way up the first pitch of Giant Staircase. Evidence: The length of the route matches Olson, and there is no other route which comes close to this set of anchors, though the first pitch of Giant Staircase travels just below, and the second pitch of Giant Staircase travels just above this set of anchors.
Two: approximately 110’ long, 5.7. Just before the bolt anchor for variation One head straight up toward a U-notch and join the Giant Staircase route where the second pitch turns up. Belay at the anchors atop of Giant Staircase second pitch. Note this anchor lays back making is not a good anchor to top rope from the ground, plan to belay your partner up to you and finish the Giant Staircase’s third pitch. Evidence: It follows the description laid out in Mountain Project, and it the most natural and obvious route to follow.
Three: (if it exists) would be about 70+’ long and 5.7-5.9. Head up the Giant Staircase first pitch as with the other two variations. Then someplace above the moss cover rock veer right and head for the Tin Tangle anchors. Note this would be the third route using the Tin Tangle anchors, which could make using this set of anchors problematic. Evidence: The topo in Olson indicates the route ends at this set of anchors and it would be closer to the 5.9 that Olson gives for the climb. Also, in Mountain Project under Protection, it states “Shares anchors with Tin Tangle.”
Note Weekend Rock: Oregon by Horton will confuse you even more. Jul 7, 2018
Kalamazoo, MI
Do It Again goes straight up the spine to the anchors in the "U" shaped groove. If you look at the Rakkup Guide, there is a photo with a topo drawn referencing the exact path of the route. I've just now uploaded a photo that was used in the Rakkup guide, indicating the path Do It Again takes. Hopefully this clears up any confusion created by the two paper print guides. You can see some of the Rakkup topo's for reference at rakkup.com/guidebook/mt-hoo…. Jul 8, 2018