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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,235 total · 26/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This is an alternate start to Giant's Staircase. Climb easy moves with giant holds to either the first belay anchor of Giant's Staircase, and continue up Giant's Staircase to the top, or go up and left onto the ledge with an anchor and rap rings.
This is also the start for Static Cling, 5.10b.

Location

If you are standing at the base of the steps up Giant's Staircase, walk 20' to the left and around the corner, and you will see a cleaned section with bolts going up it.

Protection

5 bolts plus anchor if only going to the first anchor. Bring 6-8 more if going to the top of the dome via Giant's Staircase.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
 
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
 
With the relocation of two bolts on the 2nd pitch to Giant's Staircase, it is now possible to go from the Giant's Direct to the top of the dome via Giant's Staircase in one pitch, since rope drag has been reduced almost in half now. Oct 19, 2014
das1405
Portland
 
das1405   Portland
 
This route is harder than Giants Staircase...not much, but if GS is a .6, this would be a .6+ (i think the book calls it a .7, which is a stretch) Apr 11, 2016
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.5
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.5
This is a great climb for kids! My 4 year old made it to the anchor easily. Jul 5, 2018

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