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All Locations > Oregon > Mt. Hood > French's Dome

Tin Tangle

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 2.5 from 60 votes

Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,436 total · 36/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 14, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route sends solid rock, but the bolt spacings are a little intimidating. At the first bolt, climb up and right, then climb up the right side of the blocky spine. At the spine's top, step left and join Do it Again to the top-chains.

Location

Start on the downhill side. There is a large right-tending slabby staircase, right of Giant's Staircase.

Protection

5 bolts. Steel biners on the anchors. As always, if doing multiple laps on a route, please use your own draws, then lower off the fixed biners when done.

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Photos

Do it Again goes straight up the middle of this photo.Tin Tangle cuts rights at about 20' up. There is a lot of confusion on these two routes due to the guidebooks prior to the Mt Hood Rakkup having routes mixed up and in wrong locations on the topo's.
Do it Again goes straight up the middle of this…
 1
Aaron Parker on Tin Tangle.
Aaron Parker on Tin Tangle.
 0
Red rope is on Tin Tangle. Blue rope is on Oz
Red rope is on Tin Tangle. Blue rope is on Oz
 0

5 Comments

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Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.7
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.7
All 5 bolts have been replaced with new SS 1/2" bolts and hangers on 10/8/14. Oct 8, 2014
das1405
Portland
 
das1405   Portland
 
this route can be used to get to the top! A bolt provides some protection for the easy scramble above the anchors to get to the 2nd belay station for Giants Staircase. then its 2 more QD's to get to the top. Optionally you can skip belay station and just climb to top. There is a top belay anchor point on top of dome. the repel from the top is a lot of fun. We used a 70m but seemed like you could accomplish all this with 60m no problem. This option requires 11 QD's (10 if you don't clip the first anchor) Apr 11, 2016
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
  5.8
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
  5.8
A very fun route! Good to get on a little slab every now and again! For extra adrenaline, I ran out the section underneath the "prow". A long sling is needed to reduce some drag there, but honestly it isn't too far from the top.

I saw that there was an easy top out but I didn't bring enough draws :(

Next time! May 9, 2016
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.7
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.7
Due to the extensive confusion of which route is which, I've just added a topo for Do It Again and Tin Tangle. Hopefully it helps prevent further confusion caused by the the paperback guidebooks. Jul 8, 2018
David Rosenbaum
Portland Oregon
David Rosenbaum   Portland Oregon
FYI, The last bolt on this route before the anchor is a bit loose. It might (or might not) just need to be tightened. Jul 29, 2018

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